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Up at 6.15 for breakfast and a bus at 7.30. As we were getting ready a light rain started to fall. Drove around town picking up people from various hostels but finally at 7.55, in the drizzle, we headed out north to the park. Grey clouds hung on the hillside as we skirted around Seno Ultima Esperanza, on our left. Soon we left the tarmac road of the town for a well formed gravel road through wizened trees and parched grass. Scattered farms of sheep and cattle stood by the road.
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At 8.40 we pulled into a wayside cafi for a 45 minute break. When we left the drizzle had stopped and the sun was shining on the hillsides.
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As we approached the Laguna Amarga park entrance the landscape became wide open grasslands fringed with mountains. From the entrance the road started to wind through small hills of up thrust strata and small lakes with small herds of guanaco feeding around the fringes. Briefly viewed Lago Sacmiento on our left then Lago Nordenskjvld on our right before reaching Lago Pehoe where we transferred to another bus. Most of the passengers on our previous bus were catching the catamaran across Lago Pehoe. Drove along the emerald green glaciated water of the Rio Paine until we reached the parks administrative centre where we had another transfer, this time to a minibus to take us to Hosteria Lago Grey. The central peaks of Cuernos del Paine became visible below the cloud, white sided with black tops like broken rotten teeth. Just after midday we reached Hosteria Lago Grey, at $199 per night for a double room, it is hardly a hostel.
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As the boat wasn't until 2.15 we had a snack at the bar and then sat about reading. The hotel was doing a great trade in lunches, they had a large dining room which was filled with people on organised tours. At 2.15 about 30 of us piled into a bus for 5 minutes to get to the start of a path that took us on a swing bridge over the Rio Pingo and then on a 15 minute walk, that involved a scramble, to a beach. From there we were taken a short distance by zodiac, which with the wind blowing against us and creating waves has to be taken very gently. Even so, an occasional, spray would be thrown up. Then onto the ferry which would take us up Lago Grey. By this time the sun had finally emerged to give a pleasant afternoon.
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At 3.20 we were finally off, heading into the wind and waves which were breaking over the bow, fortunately we were inside and our rucksacks sheltered at the stern. On the way up we passed a large iceberg which was making its way sedately down the lake. After an hour we called in at the camp site to pick up those returning down the lake but we didn't get off at this point but stayed on to cruise along the glacier and enjoy the views. The wind had dropped to a light breeze and the sun was shining brightly. We were lucky to be able to see a piece of the glacier break away. First small pieces fell away from where it was resting on a rock and then after a few minutes the slab collapsed.
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Returned to the campsite and disembarked with the aid of the zodiac. Found ourselves a spot and pitched camp among about 20 other tents. For our evening meal we booked in at the refugio, which saved us cooking and more importantly having to carry the food out with us. Having warmed ourselves up with the meal we retired to our sleeping bags.
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During the night, which was cool but not freezing, there was a light drizzle with larger spots dripping off the trees which we were pitched under, but as we ate breakfast the skies started to clear.
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Packed up but left our tent as we would be returning later and set off at 8.25 with our day pack and walked north in intermittent drizzle for about 20 minutes to get a view over Glacier Grey. As the view was somewhat cloudy we didn't bother climbing up to the mirador and returned to camp.
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Packed up and set off at 9.35 to head south along the lake, first climbing up the hillsides to reach a sheltered valley running parallel with the lake. Bushes of beech and occasional trees stood by the way. The valley came to and end and we emerged onto a ridge with the lake to our right. On the left a waterfall fed a tumbling stream that we later crossed over. Our way was on a well worn path, mostly rocks, stones and compacted earth with only a small boggy patch every now and again. A stripe of orange paint on a rock or an orange painted post would sometimes indicate that we were on the correct path. The path was also in regular use in the opposite direction with groups and individuals passing every few minutes. The path climbed again to bring us out into an exposed area. Soon after a squall of rain blew through but we didn't need waterproofs as the wind dried out our clothes almost as soon as the spots fell on them. The sun made an effort to break through but only for a short while, but at least it was dry and mild as we veered off to the left to drop down into a valley with Lago Pehoe in the distance ahead of us. The valley contained a variety of plants and birds that we took note of, for later identification, as we went along.
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Out on the lake the catamaran that served the Pehoe Refugio was pulling in as we made our way to the same destination, arriving at 12.45.
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Sat at a picnic table to eat our lunch and also chatted to Wendy who had had the bunk opposite to us on the ferry, and was just passing by. We would have sat longer, but it was starting to turn chilly and so at 1.40 we set off. We had not gone very far before we came upon a pair of upland geese posing for their photographs. Climbed for a short while before levelling out to just gently ascend and descend for the rest of the afternoon. On our left was the Paine Grande range, but the tops were lost in cloud. Soon a few spots of rain started to fall, which later became more persistent. Passed by Lago Skottsberg on our right, its dark waters indicated that its source wasn't glacial but run off from the mountain. Over some more difficult sections of the path board walks had been constructed though the planks were quite thin, it seemed prudent to walk close to the support beams. Reached the Rio del Francis and turned up river for 500m to reach the bridge and the Campamento Italiano at 3.50. Under as much shelter as we could find beneath the trees we erected our tent, brewed up a hot soup and at 4.30 crawled in to the dry and to get warm.
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Later with it still drizzling we ventured out to cook some diner, diving back in as soon as possible.
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Awoke at 7.30 to a better day, though overcast it was dry, but the campsite, which was in a beech wood with just a small area of grass still seemed dismal. The site came without any basic amenities.
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As we set off at 9.30, with just a day bag, to walk up to Campamento Britanico and beyond to a view point, the sun started to break through. At a height (according to our watches) of 230m, we would have to climb about 400m. With the Rio del Francis to our left we followed it up river climbing through woods of beech but we were soon out in open and warming up with the effort. In front of us was the large black mastiff of Paine Grande with the snow dazzling in the sun. On our right were the white peaks of the Cuernos del Paine. Scrambling in places and walking over talus we were glad we were not carrying full packs up or down. Reach a ridge of lateral moraine which we then walked along. In the distance we could hear the occasional rumble of a piece of glacier breaking off and crashing down the mountain side. Emerged to a view point and also into a strong head wind. The sun rose above the clouds that were behind the Cuernos del Paine. By the path small clumps of yellow 'Ladies Slipper' stood out. The climb became less steep but undulating as we cross ridges of terminal moraine dumped by successive generations of glaciers as they receded up the valley. Came out into a basin and the going became a bit more boggy.
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At 11.10 we reached Campamento Britanico and continued to follow the river for a short way with views of Norte Paine Grange. Turned right and started to climb. Patches of snow gradually turned to a complete covering as we scrambling up rocks, snow, and frozen pumice beside a tumbling stream to make for a ridge above an open hillside. The jagged Cuernos del Paine were lit up in the sun. At 11.50, with the snow covering the ground, we lost the path on the hillsides and so contented ourselves with the views we had, the fact we had reached 1000m, and the thought that the views wouldn't get any better without climbing considerably further. After 20 minutes we descended back to the camp, taking 35 minutes, were we stopped for a snack, but within 5 minutes flies were pestering us and so we set off back down, stopping on the way to take in the view across the lakes. Arrived back at the camp at 2.40, had a quick lunch and packed away the tent which was now dry.
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At 3.30 we set off south for Los Cuernos. After a short way we discovered that there was more to the camp than we had realised, another section was much better than the one we had stopped at, it also had flushing toilets! Followed the river down for a couple of hundred metres and then bore left onto a flat open area of grass and low bushes before climbing to enter patches of woodland and levelling out again. Spots of rain fell and continued to do so for the rest of the walk, but not heavy enough to bother us. On our right Lago Nordenskjvld appeared and we contoured round above the lake. Coming over a brow we saw the green roofs of the refugio by the lake side, in the distance. A steep descent took us closer to the lake before contouring again. A series of descents took us down to the lake shore where for a couple of hundred metres we were able to walk on the beach with a 50:50 mix of black and white pebbles.
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From then on the going became tough with rounded boulders and rocks. It was very difficult to maintain balance and very tiring. But all things come to an end and for the last 10 minutes we were back on a good path. Reached the Refugio Los Cuernos at 5.05, having cut 50 minutes off what should have been a 2 1/2 hour walk, and most thankful we were.
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The refugio was very modern; it even had hot showers, which we took advantage of. To put the icing on the cake we had our meal cooked for us.
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In the night the wind blew so strong that we seemed it would lift the roof.
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As we set out at 8.55 we had a strong westerly wind in our backs. This is the normal wind direction in this area and the reason we chose to walk the path from west to east. But the wind had dispersed most of the cloud so we had a clear bright start.
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With the sun in our eyes we crossed the bridge just after the refugio and started on a steady climb. The wind was behind us, whipping up waves on the lake which the previous day had been like a mill pond. When we cut inland to bypass a headland and into a sheltered valley the wind was still. The mountains on the far horizon ahead of us were of a more rounded shape than those of the Torres. Descended back towards lake shore but still stayed above it to cross a river and 2 streams before reaching the Rio del Arriero. A further 20 minutes brought us to a point where a path to Campamento Chileno diverted off left, this useful path was not shown on the map and we only learnt about it from another walker who had used it the day before. Soon after we reached another river and after climbing a short way from it stopped for a 10 minute snack. A short climb took us to a level area with a small lake to the right. In the distance we could see the roofs of Hosterma Las Torres. Another short climb and then more slowly we gradually made our way across open ground with the route marked by white posts. An occasional cloud would cover the sun and drop the temperature. Not everybody using the path were walkers, horses were also in use. And then a long steady climb as we curved around left to enter the Ascencio valley. From the right and below, the path from Hosterma Las Torres came up to join us. The Rio Ascencio rushed along deep in the valley to our right. Rising over a brow we had a view of Campamento Chileno in the distance across other side of the river, with the path running down the valley side, except for where it went up hill!
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At 12.45 we crossed a bridge and reached the campsite and sat in the sun looking at the Torres while we ate our lunch. Whilst there a train of pack horses came by delivering items to the refugio.
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1.20 and we crossed back across the bridge to follow the river up stream through beech wood, gradually climbing up the valley side and crossing side streams, either on bridges or stepping stones. After an hour we arrived at Campamento Torres and scouted about for a good spot. We found one that was in the process of being vacated, but it took them ages to sort themselves out and more away. In the end they moved off and we moved our tent that we had already erected, onto the site. After settling ourselves in we found some rocks in the sun and sat down to relax for a while.
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Wednesday 28 January 2004
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There had been drizzle in the night but by the time we got up at 7.00 it had stopped. After breakfast, we set off to ascend to the Torres Mirador. Climbed steadily through and beside a boulder field. The sun shone on the sides of the Torres but the tops were in cloud. Following the red dots we emerged into the sun. At 8.35 reached the mirador, but we weren't the first, at least 7 other people had arrived before us. The peaks were still in cloud but at least we had some view. We stayed around for half an hour, hoping for improvement, but it didn't.
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Returned to camp, packed up, and set off back down the path at 10.20. The tops of the Torres were still cloudy, but not as much as previously. Reached the Campamento Chileno after 55 minutes and pressed on, taking a 5 minute snack break by a small stream where we were able to replenish our water. Continued on a long slog up the side of the valley, wondered why the path took such a route rather than following the river down. Reached the top of the climb and started a long grind down passing the turn off we had come in on. We were glad that we had taken the short cut on the way up and not had to climb the section. Coming up the other way was a steady procession of day hikers, it was like a Sunday on Snowdon. At last we reached the bottom and crossed a river to arrive at Hosterma Las Torres at 12.30.
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Sat around in sun and showers to eat our lunch.
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At 2.30 we caught a free minibus down to the park gate. The bridge at the end of the road was only about 10cm wider than the bus. Transferred to the main bus back to Puerto Natales, it was just as well we boarded promptly as it ended up with standing room only.
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