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26 March to 12 April 2004
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Arrived in Melbourne after a flight of just over an hour. The fields around the city were parched, just hedges surrounding dust. Quickly claimed our baggage and caught a bus into the city centre where we were transferred to a smaller bus to get us out to the youth hostel at Queensberry Hill.
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Once we had sorted ourselves out we walked up to the nearest supermarket for food for the next couple of days, and then into the city centre for a quick orientation.
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Return to the YHA for our evening meal and to re-organise our bags again ready for the next stage of our travels.
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Spent the morning in the city centre, first calling in at the Visitors Centre to pick up information and then trying to find somewhere to buy a camping gas cylinder. In the end we strayed into Little Bourke Street and found all the outdoor shops together.
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Returned to the hostel in time to meet Nerys, who we travelled with in South America. With her we travelled back into town, using the tram to get round to Flinders Station where we ate lunch nearby before sitting in a park to look through Nerys' photos and reminisce on the South American trip.
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After leaving her we called in at a ticket agency to buy tickets for an Australian rules football match, but were told by the very helpful lady that we would be better to just buy a general access ticket at the ground. Returned to the hostel for a quick snack and then walked to the Telstra Stadium and bought our tickets, as advised, then found suitable seats on the third level. The game was between St Kilda and Geelong, both local teams. Although we didn't understand the rules at the start we had a fair idea by the end. We enjoyed the match, though we're not sure that it was of the best quality, there seemed to be a lot of loose handling and kicking.
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Clocks went back and so we had an extra hour in bed.
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Walked into the city to collect our hire car. We had reserved one from Group C but ended up with one from Group F for the same price - spacious and luxurious with all mod cons. Drove over to St Kilda to pick up Nerys and then out for a late breakfast for Nerys and a snack for us at a nearby beach cafi. Unfortunately the service was terrible, it took an hour and lots of chasing for our order to arrive and then it wasn't exactly what we ordered. We ended up getting it for free.
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Our plan was to visit Mornington Peninsula and so we drove south on the Nepean Highway, round Port Phillip Bay and down to the National Park at the tip of the peninsula. For most of the journey we were passing through seaside residential homes and small shopping areas.
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At the NP we paid our fees and drove in as far as we could, parked up, and then walked the final 3.5km on roads and paths to the very end, an area that has been used at various times as a defence position for the approaches to Melbourne. Returned back along the peninsula by first visiting Cape Schank and walking down to the beach before again picking up the coast road. Stopped on the way for an excellent fish & chips before dropping Nerys off and returning to the hostel in time to meet George, who was arriving around 9.45pm to join us for the next 12 days for our trip to Adelaide. Sat around for an hour talking with George before retiring.
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Spent the morning getting out of Melbourne, first through the city centre with one way streets, various turn restrictions and trams, then through the never ending suburbs to the south east and out onto the Princes Highway. Stopped on the way at the very large Chadstone Shopping Centre for supplies for the next three days. At Warragul we turned south to Korumburra stopping along the way at a picnic spot but as we stepped out of the car we realised that we had made a mistake as the wind blew across the hill. Continued on to Korumburra and found a picnic table in the town near the toilets. Had a brief stop to eat our sandwiches before we were driven back into the car by a shower of rain.
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Took the South Grippsland Highway as far as Meeniyan where the sign directed us to Wilsons Promontory NP. Handed over our camping fees at the park gate and drove for another 30km down to Tidal River. Spent a few minutes driving around the campsite until we were happy that we had found the best available pitch on level ground, close to the toilets, and near a cooking shelter.
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Once we had set up camp we took a short walk through the bush to the southern end of Norman Beach and then along the beach before heading back to camp to cook our evening meal. With it threatening to rain we made use of the cooking shelter which only had one wall which didn't give much protection from t e wind. After the meal we sat in the car reading until it was a reasonable time to go to bed.
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During the night a strong wind blew the tent about and at one point it sounded as if a hose had been turned on us. But when we awoke at 7am it was dry though there was still quite a breeze.
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Decided that we would do two half day walks. For the morning we walked out on the Lilly Pilly Loop. Because the weather was dull and windy the birds were keeping a low profile, though we did come across a raven savagely attacking a young green parrot. The vegetation thrown which we were walking w
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S for ever changing as we moved from ridges to gullies, from the lee of a hill to the windward side, from wet to dry, from lowlands to higher altitude. Each plant having its own favourite niche. Running off the loop was a track to Mount Bishop which took us up to fine views out to sea and back over Tidal River. Unfortunately the weather was still dull and the cloud low, on a good day the setting would have been magnificent.
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Returned to camp for lunch and then sat around for a while relaxing before setting off to walk to Squeaky Beach. A side track took us first to Pillar Point, again with good views spoilt by poor weather . Continued on to Squeaky Beach with rounded granite rocks set beside white sand. To complete the afternoons trek we continued on round on the Tidal River Overlook Track to return on the same track as we used to walk out to Lilly Pilly Gully. Beside the track were many grass trees, where as we had previously only seen three seed heads, here nearly every one had a seed head. With it just starting to rain we made it back to camp and jumped into the car for shelter.
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Although still windy the day was a lot brighter and we got off to a good start driving over to the Mount Oberon car park for the start of the Sealer Bay Track. The first section of the walk had us climbing through mainly eucalyptus and beech forest up to the well named Windy Saddle. Descending down the other wetter side of the saddle we passed through fern trees and fern and grass undergrowth in particularly damp areas, the clicking, like crickets, of a small frog could be heard. At one point we came upon a small party of teenagers who had found a pink/red crab/scorpion like creature on the path. We took a photo of it and later enquiries revealed that it was most probably the very rare Lilly Pilly burrowing crayfish. For the last couple of kilometres the track was on boards through an area of swamp with swamp paper bark being the dominant vegetation. Cross a bridge over the Black Fish Creek and soon emerged onto the beach. In front of us lay a Port Jackson shark which had freshly washed up on the beach, a seagull was starting to take an interest in it. Walked along the beach to the camp ground but our way was blocked by a stream and as we had no real need to continue we found ourselves a spot for an early lunch.
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Our return journey was accompanied by a steady drizzle until we reached Windy Saddle again where it eased off to allow us to dry off a little on the descent to the car park.
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Returned to the camp and hung our damp waterproofs on a tree to dry before visiting the cafi for a hot chocolate and a box of chips. Visited the Information Centre who helped us to identify our photo as that of the Lilly Pilly burrowing crayfish and asked us to send them a copy of the photo and details of where we had seen it so that they could enter it into their records.
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Watched a showing of an information video at the Information Centre and then took a short walk on the Loo-Errn track along the bank of the Tidal River.
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The night was extremely windy. First there would be a stillness, then we would hear a roar through the treetops and then we would be hit by a strong blast that would seem to almost rip the tent from the ground before settling back to just a strong wind and finally into a lull. With the strong winds still blowing when we got up we made use of the laundry to shelter for breakfast.
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Packed up as best we could and drove up towards the park entrance. Just after passing the airstrip we came upon a pair of kangaroos and a couple of emus grazing by the road. Managed to photo the emus but they became nervous and then startled the kangaroos as they strutted away.
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Turning up the Five Mile Road to the car park from where we walked along the Millers Landing Track. At last the sun started to shine. On the open heath with a scattering of eucalyptus and banksia trees we again came upon kangaroos, this time they stood around, almost posing for us.
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The track and area we were passing through looked as if it could at one time been a farm. When we reached Millers Landing we found a small bay surrounded by swap paper bark, with an area of mangrove and a small island on which where a wide population of birds - egrets, ibis, heron, cormorants, black back gulls, and swimming in the sea, black swans. A magnificent view. Returned to the car and continued our drive. Leaving the park we drove to Foster, a pleasant small town where we stopped for a drink and shopping before turning west along the South Gippsland Highway. A small town which we could not pass by was Lang Lang where we stopped for a photo and lunch in a breezy park.
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Completed our journey back to Melbourne and again booked into the YHA for the night.
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Drove out of Melbourne keeping to the outskirts to avoid the city centre traffic. Picked up the Princes Freeway through flat countryside to take us down to Geelong and then on local roads to Queenscliff, a small peninsula jutting into Port Phillip. Walked along to the ferry port which was as far as we could go. Returned to the car and took a short side trip down to Port Lonsdale which is the western side of The Rip, a 3.5km channel into Port Phillip, the bay on which Melbourne stands. The eastern side of The Rip is Point Nepean which we had visited a few days previously. Returned to the road and drove to Ocean Grove where we found a good picnic spot between the road and the sea for our lunch.
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Crossed the Barwon River to Barwon Heads and drove to Torquay, the official start of the Great Ocean Road, and the surfing capital of Australia. It was just as well that we were not a week later or we would have been caught up in the World Professional Surfing Championships. A number of surfers were practising in the bay. The road climbed inland and then returned to the coast again, as we made our way down to Anglesea in wall to wall sunshine. Just beyond Anglesea we pulled off to visit Split Point Lighthouse and view the crashing of the waves around Eagle Rock, a hard base on which was a softer weathered upper layer and Table Rock, whose soft upper layer had been washed away to just leave the bed rock.
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From Aireys Inlet the road again climbed in order to get around Fairhaven before returning to the coast. All along the coast surfers were trying out the breaking waves.
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At Lorne we stopped for a while to visit the Visitors Centre and check out the postcards before continuing down the coast. Large waves were kicking up a mist of sea spray. The road fell into shadow as the sun disappeared behind the hills to our right before reappearing once we had passed Cape Patton and run down to Apollo Bay. Turned inland again to skirt first around the edge of Cape Otway NP and then enter it before turning down towards the lighthouse. When we had heard that it was possible to stay at the lighthouse, this became Plan B, but when we found that they were fully booked be had to return to our original plan of camping at Blanket Bay, which we reached down a gravel road which for a few moments shocked us when we saw a gate barring our way, but it wasn't locked to we were able to continue our journey to the camp ground where we found ourselves a pitch and in the dying light cooked our evening meal.
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For the rest of the evening we sat in the car reading and writing.
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Went to sleep listening to the sounds of the ocean waves breaking on the shore and frogs singing around the water tap.
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Awoke to a grey damp morning. After breakfast, while tents dried, we looked around Blanket Bay beach and walked out west along the Great Ocean Road Track for a short way, passing a lookout without being able to spot it. Returned to the camp site. The drizzle was still intermittent and our tents hadn't dried and so we packed them away wet.
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Drove up to the Cape Otway Lighthouse, but found that it was quite expensive to go in and so we gave it a miss and drove on, spotting a koala in a tree as we passed.
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Stopped just before Glanaire for our morning coffee break, then on through Lavers Hill. At a sign for Moonlight Head we turned off down a dirt track to bring us out at the Shipwreck Coast. With the sun now shining, we put out tents out on the bushes to dry whilst we descended the 360 steps down to the beach and took a walk along the it. Various lengths of sawn timber lay above the high tide mark.
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Returned to the car and packed away our almost dry tents and then drove through rolling grazing country to the first of a number of coastal features at Gibson Steps. With a lot to do we only stayed for a short while before driving on to the Twelve Apostles. Stopped in the large car park that services the many people visiting the site and ate our lunch from the car as there were no picnic tables. After lunch we called in at the large visitors centre which was very disappointing and what would seem a waste of money. One third of it was toilets and the rest an area with large posters, bearing a few poems, hanging from the ceiling. Walked down to the cliff top and looked out at the rock stacks that were once called the 'Sow and piglets' but now renamed the Twelve Apostles. Even though the sun wasn't shining on the face we were looking at they still looked magnificent.
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Next call was the Loch Ard Gorge, named after the Loch Ard which was wrecked nearby in 1878 with only two people and a peacock surviving. The area provided a number of walks from which to view the cliff and rock formation and we walked most of them. Started off with Loch Ard Gorge itself, then moved on to look back down the coast to the Twelve Apostles, moving on finally to The Blowhole and Thunder Cave, all interesting views in their own right packed into a couple of kilometres of coastline. Walking back we were proved with a view of two Nankeen kestrels souring about the cliffs. When we had finally finished viewing we drove on to Port Campbell where we called in at the well stocked Visitors Centre and then booked in at the National Parks camp ground which had both excellent facilities and a nice level tent site.
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Spent time reading all the leaflets we had picked up at the Information Centre before wandering into town for fish and chips.
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A beautiful sunny morning. Before leaving we did a once around town to pick up some bread and then left for another full day of touring. First stop was just outside town at a lookout to look back over the town. Then The Arch with waves pounding against the rocks sculpturing the rocks, as it was all along the coast. On to London Bridge, which was a pair of rock arches stretching out from the mainland, but in 1990 the span nearest to the mainland collapsed leaving two people stranded in the middle. Next up was The Grotto, a sink hole which had an arch cut into it by the sea. Passed Peterborough we came to the Bay of Martyrs and then the Bay of Islands, all features that had been carved by the sea and outstanding in their own right but coming at the end of a series of great views lost some of the impact they might otherwise have had.
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Headed inland through farming country form a while to bring us round to the port of Warrnambool, the largest city on the Ocean Road. There were many things to do in Warrnambool so we just selected what we thought were the best two, - Flagstaff Hill and the evening spectacle, 'Shipwrecked'.
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Spent about 3 hours wondering through the exhibits of Flagstaff Hill which started off with a short film of one emigrant describing his journey by ship from England to Australia. Next was a small but well presented museum about the ships that been wrecked on the nearby coast, both the heroism and the idiocy. Particularly intriguing was 'The Mahogany Ship' the wreck of a ship found high in the sand dunes in the 1830s but the site of which has now been lost. One claim is that it was a Portuguese ship of 1520, which if true would change history of exploration. From the museum we moved outside to a reconstruction of historical buildings to form a small port with a restored ship. The area also contained in their original positions, a gun emplacement from the late 19th century and a lighthouse.
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When we had finished we took a late lunch on the grass outside the Visitors Centre before driving on to 'Tower Hill' 15km to the west of Warrnambool. Tower Hill is the site of a volcano that erupted 25,000 years ago to leave a water filled crater and a further cone within the lake. But the land all around is flat with the crater below the general level. We took a walk following one of the tracks to the last volcanic cone.
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Drove on to Port Fairy using the scenic route which took us around the northern edge of the main volcanic cone. Booked in at the 'Garden Campground' which was again well equipped with a cook shelter that even included a microwave.
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After our evening meal we drove back into Warrnambool for a performance of 'Shipwreck' which told the story of the wreck of the Loch Ard. First of all we were shown short film and then we were taken by a tractor drawn carriage into the reconstructed port area. A theatre had been set up overlooking the harbour. The story continued with a laser light show projected onto a screen produced by a spray of water over the lake. It was all very well done.
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Had a brief look around Port Fairy before starting out on our drive which first took us to Portland which was supposedly named after the Duke of Portland, but as it has similarities to Portland on the south coast of England it's more likely it's been named after that. Stayed for a while for a drink and to look around before moving on to Cape Bridgewater to see the Petrified Forest - trees whose stumps were covered over then rotted away to be replaced by sandstone. From Cape Bridgewater the road took us through eucalypt forests and fir plantations. Along the way, around lunch time we saw a sign, up a dirt track, for a picnic spot, but after driving for about 5km without finding it we gave up and returned to the road and had lunch on a grassy area near the junction.
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Continued on through Nelson before taking a right turn into Lower Glenelg NP to the caves gorge. Found a short path to walk around which gave us a good view into the river gorge. Headed north out of the National Park on side roads, crossing the border into South Australia, to Mount Gambier. Stopped off at the visitors centre for local information before making our way to 'The Goal' YHA. Put our watches bake 30 minutes to South Australian time.
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Unloaded our bags and then drove out to take a look at the 'Crater Lakes', on the south side of town. Stopped first at the Apex Lookout by Blue Lake. In summer the lake turns a turquoise blue but goes blue-grey in winter, a unique process resulting from the dissolving of calcium and organic wastes in the warmer summer waters. Drove around the rim of the lake and moved on to look out over Leg of Mutton Lake, so called because of its shape. For much of the time the lake is dry. Vegetation on the slopes of the crater was displaying autumn colours. Further on besides Valley Lake was a wild life park protected from predators by a high fence. We watched kangaroos, numerous birds, and a long neck tortoise.
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returned to the hostel for our evening meal and to plan out with George his visit to Scotland.
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With a long journey ahead of us we were up before seven and on our way just after eight. The weather was dull which suited us for the drive. Took the road out to the coast at Beachport and spent a few minutes driving around for a quick view of the place before continuing up to Robe where we did the same. As we made our way up to Kingston a light appeared on the dash board informing us it was time for a coffee break and continued bleeping every five minutes until we stopped at Kingston. At Kingston, once refreshed we also took a look at the analemmatic sun dial, which due to the cloud cover wasn't working, a the giant lobster. The area hadn't been very populated to this point but it became even more sparse as we moved north with parched fields hidden behind roadside bush with occasional sheep or cattle grazing. Silage was being fed to some as a feed supplement. At last the sun appeared as we pulled off to view Chinamans Well, sunk by an enterprising Chinaman in the 1850s when thousands of Chinese were heading for the Victorian gold fields. Took a short informative walk around the area.
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Continuing along the road we came to a sign indicating picnic spot, toilets etc and so we took it and again like the day before we never found it. But this time, because we were on a loop road and heading in the right direction, we stayed on it and reached a drying salt lake with a good spot to sit for lunch. The lake was once worked for salt production but was now abandoned. The salt had a slightly pink reflection in the sun.
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Continued on along the loop road to emerge near Salt Creek and to rejoin the main road north beside lake and through scrub covered sand dunes until we headed inland over a flat landscape around Lake Alexandrina.
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As we headed for Wellington we spotted a blue tongued lizard on the road and so backed up to take its photo. To get to Wellington we had to cross the Murray River for which a large free cable ferry was provided. On the opposite bank, as we pulled in were a couple of trees with dozens on cockatoos in then making it look as if they were in flower. The road west of Wellington took us through extensive fields of vines to Strathalbyn where we turned south for our destination at Post Elliot YHA. The building dated from 1851 and is now known as Arnella by the sea, though it was formerly the Port Elliot Hotel.
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After booking in we drove on to Victor Harbour, the nearest town, about 5km further down the road, to check emails and shop for our evening meal.
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As we had to be at the ferry terminal 55km away by 8.30 for the 9.00 ferry we were up and packed early. The drive down to Cape Jervis was much easier than it appeared on the map, with a good road and no other traffic. The ferry got away on time but although the sea looked calm enough it rolled around quite violently in the long swell, arriving at Penneshaw 10 minutes late just before 10.00. As usual made the Information Centre our first stop and picked up maps and leaflets on things to do.
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left Penneshaw and headed west to t
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E main part of the island. Off to the northern side of the road on the map we had noticed Pelican Lagoon Conservation Park that looked as if it might be interesting, but when the track petered out without us finding it, we turned back. Continued on to take a look at Matthew Flinders Monument and then climbed up Prospect Hill to get a similar view as he found over 200 years ago. We got to climb wooden steps he had to climb the sandy bank.
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Drove on towards Kingscote stopping again to visit the Beyeria Conservation Park, named after the endemic turpentine bush beyeria subtecta. The short walk through the regenerating bush had over 20 signs describing 'The many faces of mallee scrub'. The bushes, each spaced out occupying their own space almost appeared to have been planted. A mallee is a type of eucalypt that has under ground shoots that can sprout up through the ground after a fire.
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Drove into Kingscote where we had lunch before driving out a short way to Reeve Point, site of the first settlement in Southern Australia. We then headed out to Seal Bay and paid to take the self-guided board walk tour. The colony of Australian sea-lion that make Seal Cove their permanent home number about 600, spending half their time at sea feeding and the other half on shore resting. But when we visited there were only about a dozen at home, which was a bit of a disappointed. Turned back towards Penneshaw taking a back road and stopping on the way near Murray Lagoon to walk the Timber Creek Walk which was described as having a wide variety of bird life. Unfortunately the areas around the lagoon had dried out and and there wasn't a bird in sight. So we cut short the walk and returned to the car. After consulting our YHA directory we discovered that the reception was only open until 5pm and so we hurried back, pausing only to take a photo of a ? heading for its hole.
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When we arrived at the hostel we found that the reception would be open from 6.45 to 7.30, so we could have taken our time and also made some other visits.
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Kangaroo Island is 155km long and today we were driving to the far end and so we set off in good time at 8.00, driving along the central island road through Parndana where we stopped for food and fuel. Then on to Flinders Chase Visitors Centre, through scrub and then eucalypt woodland, to buy our park pass and have our morning snack before driving out to Cape du Couedic Lighthouse. We parked the car in the Admirals Arch car park and walked down the wide board walk, in a stiff breeze, to over look the cliffs with New Zealand fur seals basking on the rocks or swimming in the sea. The view also took in the two Casuarina Islets also known as 'The Brothers'. Further down the walk we arrived at a view through Admirals Arch to the churning sea beyond. We also took the opportunity to follow a heritage walk around the outside of the lighthouse.
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Moved on to 'Remarkable Rocks', an unusual formation of granite rocks that have been weathered over millions of years to look like melting blocks of ice. With many other tourists milling about we struggled to get a good photo shot.
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Returned to the visitors centre to find a picnic table at which to eat our lunch. While there a Brush Turkey wandered by.
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After lunch we started on our way back using the southern road. For our first afternoon side trip we stopped at a caravan park that had a stand of eucalypts beside it and a walk through to look at koala. We were able to spot at least 6 or 7, most were their usual slothful selves but a couple were showing some activity such as turning their heads so we were able to get a good photograph. The next visit we had noted was Little Sahara which was vaguely marked on the map. It took a couple of drive bys to locate the turn which was not sign posted and just had a small board at the end of the dirt track. Drove down to find some large sand dunes, the closer, smaller ones with some vegetation, a larger one at the back was completely bare except for two lads with a boogie board.
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The quickest way back to Penneshaw was to use a minor dirt road that ran across the southern coast, it also was only about 12km from the short walk we missed the day before and so for our last side trip we drove down to Wreckers Bay where we located the old threshing floor which was the start of the walk to Tadpole Cove. The well signed sandy path took us by the threshing floor that was last used in the 1900s and wound its way through the dunes to pass an old cottage and emerge above Tadpole Cove, with a rounded rock formation in the middle.
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Returned to the car and thence to the hostel.
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After a brief relaxation, while it was still light, we took a stroll along the beach to Frenchman's Rock where chiselled the message, which translates to 'Expedition of discovery by Captain Baudin in the Geographe 1803'.
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We had driven all over the island but had not really looked around Penneshaw so with a little time to spare before we caught the ferry we walked the 'Fireball Bates Heritage Trail' which took us around town telling us a little about its history.
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The ferry crossing though still a little bumpy was far calmer than when we first crossed. Soon we were off loaded and making our way up the main road on the north side of the Fleurieu Peninsula. We had spotted in our brochures that perhaps Old Noarlunga would be a good place to stop and about the right time for lunch. First of all we drove through the town but the main park was full of families picnicking, this being Good Friday and a holiday for many. But without too much trouble we found ourselves a seat overlooking the river. In the middle was a mud bank surrounded by shallows with ibis pecking away in the mud. A heron also stood by, every now and then peering into the water to snap up a small fish. In the deeper water were a couple of cormorants swimming about just below the surface, trailing a line of bubbles; then standing on a log to dry out their wings.
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One of the reasons we had stopped at Old Noarlunga was because we had read about a riverside walk so after lunch we set off round the bank but it was a bit of a disappointment with the unmarked way running round a sports field then on a quiet side road. The river itself held no great interest being almost absent of birds, except in one spot. It seemed that the lovely spot we had found for lunch was all that was on offer. Crossed over the swing bridge and into ? NP, in the hope of finding a better walk. Although a couple of signs announced that efforts were being made to regenerate the area, these were dated 1999 and all effort seemed to have petered out.
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Returned to the car to continue our journey into Adelaide where we dropped George off at the airport before finding our way to the YHA. Being a bank holiday, we had no trouble in negotiating the streets.
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spent a gentle day with a little bit of shopping mixed with a little sight seeing. Many of the shops outside the main shopping area of Rundle Street were closed, but there all was hustle and bustle. Browsed the outdoor shops but in the end only bought a pair of sleeves each from a cycle shop.
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For our main sight seeing activity we visited the Migration Museum which told the story of immigration since South Australia first became a colony in 1836.
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Met up with Janet, who we had travelled with in South America. She drove us up to Mount Lofty, a view point from which we could look down over the city of Adelaide. Following a drink we took a short walk in the woods nearby, spotting the backside of a bandicoot disappearing into the undergrowth.
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For lunch we drove down to Glenelg, the landing point for the first settlers in South Australia and now a popular sea-side town and residence. There we spent the afternoon strolling along the sea shore and then looking at Janet's photos of the South American trip
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