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20 February to 26 March 2004
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Gained an hour and lost a day as we arrived in Auckland for a quick transfer to the Sydney flight for another uneventful journey. The Aussies must be turning pansies - all the air hostess were men! Passed through immigration and customs without too much trouble, even though we were carrying some food, had a wooden turtle, and had been camping in Chile. With a couple of hours to spare before our Hobart flight we had the luxury of browsing an English language bookshop and eating a mars bar and chocolate egg.
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Arrived in Tasmania at dusk. The approach to the landing was a little turbulent, with strong winds buffeting the plane about, but the landing was smooth enough. Collected our bags reasonably quickly, picked up some tourist leaflets and read the sign at the carrousel telling of the various methods of travelling the 15km from the airport into Hobart. We opted for the shuttle bus waiting outside, which for A$9.20 singe or A$16.00 each return soon had us outside the Adelpi Court YHA just after 9pm. This was just after the closing time for reception but the receptionist appeared from around a corner when we tried the door and showed us to a comfortable room, rather than us having to open up the secure key box and finding our own way.
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Saturday 21 February 2004
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Spent the morning going through all the travel literature and bus time tables that we could find. Concluded in the end that the only way that we could get everything done that we wanted to would be to hire a car. When we had finished we walked into Hobart centre to check out Tourist Information, buy maps and food for our trip and confirm our car hire booking. It being Saturday we also walked to Salamanca Market with a large number of craft and book stalls and more aged hippies than anywhere outside LA. Strolled on to Battery Point and into Princes Park with a sign telling us about the area.
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When Governor Sorell arrived in 1817 he found the town defenceless, and ordered the construction on Battery Point of the Mulgrave Battery. Hastily built in 1818, by the 1820s it was described as 'a poor pitiful mud fort', armed with old and decrepit ships' guns and with poor visibility over the river.
Governor Franklin, arriving in 1836, found the town still defenceless . After a panic in 1841, with a visit by whaling ships from France and America, England's current enemies, another battery was begun. By 1845 the Prince of Wales Battery , mounted with ten guns, was completed behind the Mulgrave Battery, which was now dismantled. The new battery was also poorly sited, with limited visibility and exposed to enemy fire from the side.
With the Crimean War alert in 1854, a third battery, the Albert Battery, was built behind the Prince of Wales Battery. Following tradition it was poorly sited and constructed and inadequately equipped.
Both the Albert and the Prince of Wales Batteries were condemned in 1878. Most of the stone was removed to build the Alexandra Battery down the river, but the magazine and parapets were retained in case of war. There is no record of the fate of the guns. In 1882 the Battery Reserve was handed to the city council as a recreation ground.
In spite of the considerable work and expense Hobart was effectively defenceless throughout this period. Ironically, probably the only time the port was ever the subject of foreign interest was before the town was founded.
The British troops garrisoned in Tasmania were all infantry. Despite official enthusiasm for batteries there was never any artillerymen to fire them. Occasionally a few soldiers, and even the police, were given sufficient instruction by retired artillerymen to fire a salute.
The Crimean War in 1854 once again alerted the authorities to Hobart's defencelessness. With the customary speed the Government acted. It passed legislation in 1858, under which the Hobart Town Volunteer Artillery Company was formed in 1859.
They used the Albert Battery for shot and shell practice. Before firing, a non-commissioned officer would call the houses behind the battery and warn the occupants to open all their windows. Those who did not had their windows broken, which was the only damage the Volunteers and the batteries even inflicted.
After the initial rush of enthusiasm for the dashing uniforms, marching, and the opportunity to fire the guns, numbers dwindled from 126 in 1860 to 53 in 1864. A Select Committee in 1865 concluded that while some of them were clearly capable of becoming soldiers, 'as a means of Defence against foreign aggressors (the Volunteers) would be next to useless'. In addition, the money spent on uniforms, pay and prizes was far more than was ever spent on maintenance of the batteries. The last parade was held in 1870.
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Called in at the car hire office and booked our car for travelling around in. We then returned to the hostel to book our itinerary for the coming month.
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To learn more about the history of Hobart we took a guided walk through the city centre and quay areas. We heard how Hobart was the second colonial settlement in Australia, being founded when Sydney had become too much of a settled area to take on more convicts and so Hobart was established as a penal colony in 1804 (therefore at present celebrating its bicentenary). With convict labour the town developed over the first half of the 19th century into a thriving community. Fine Georgian houses were build from mellow local sandstone, many of which are still standing. We also had the personalities of the period described to us, the good and the bad. Although a little expensive, at A$17 each, it was well worth it as it was one of the best guided tours we have followed.
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After the tour we stopped in the Salamanca area for a snack and the Internet before retracing some of the tour to get a second look.
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Having sorted out our itinerary we were ready to start our tour of Tasmania. Walked into the city to pick up our hire car, as well as some cash, and then returned to collect our bags. Picked our way through the dead ends and one way system of Hobart to reach the bridge over the River Derwent and on to Sorell by crossing the Pitt Water causeway. From Sorell we turned onto the A9 towards Port Arthur, passing through a landscape of wooded hillsides on an excellent road. Near Eaglehawk Neck we took a side turn to take a look at the Tessellated Pavement, a rock formation on the sea shore where fault lines had broken up the rock shelf into almost rectangular sections. Erosion had resulted in some sections being raised, known as loaves, and other pan sections being lower than the joining lines.
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Just before Port Arthur we turned off left on an unsealed road to Fortescue Bay. The first sign to meet us was an announcement that due to a severe forest fire at the beginning of the year the Cape Piller track was closed. However, we continued on so we could find out if there we any alternatives. The eucalyptus forest on either side of the road, which had arisen from a previous forest fire in 1945, was indeed badly burnt. Fire is part of the eucalyptus life cycle. At the end of the track was a campground overlooking the sea, so we found ourselves a comfortable rock and sat for lunch. We also read the notices and discovered that there was a track around the bay and then northwards to Eaglehawk Neck. Decided that out plan of action would be to camp where we were and spend the afternoon walking out to Bivouac Bay and back and also checking it out as a possible overnight camp. Then the next day driving up to Eaglehawk Neck and walking the track from there down to Bivouac Bay, camping the night and returning the next day. Went over to the office to book a camp pitch, on the way we came across a small animal that we were told was a pademelon.
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Once we had set up the tent to claim our spot we set off, at 2pm, on our walk which would take us into a couple of small bays within the larger Fortescue Bay. We hadn't gone but a few paces when a pair of parrots went squawking passed. The walk took us initially along the white sandy beach with the sea on our right. It was about an hour passed high tide. A river flowing into the bay was running quite deep and so we had to take our shoes off and wade across. Entered a mixed woodland of pine, eucalyptus, banksia amongst many other varieties. The undergrowth consisted of ferns and sharp, tough grass. Fantails flitted about in the trees and on the ground, peeping out of their burrows we came across a couple of little penguin chicks. The path rose and fell us it followed the coast as well as it could round the bay until we came to Canoe Bay, containing the wreck of the William Pitt rusting away. Around the other side of Canoe Bay we passed the Canoe Bay campsite and started to climb up and inland. The tree canopy hid the sun from us most of the time. Dropping again to sea level, we reached Bivouac Bay at 3.35. A quick inspection showed that it would be a good spot for our next nights camp. Returned on the same path. On the way back we paused for a while to watch two large black birds fending off a grey goshawk. With the tide lower, the stream this time was easier to cross using rocks that had been revealed.
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At the camp, as we sat around, we were able to see more wild life. Another, or perhaps the same, Pademelon came up to the fence separating some woods from the campsite, then looking up into a tree we noticed, not 3m away, a black currawong , a large black bird with a strong black beak, a plump chest and white patches under its wing and tail feathers just sitting there. It wasn't at all bothered by us and hopped about in the branches for about 20 minutes before flying away.
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After breaking camp we returned back to Eaglehawk Neck and stopped off for a coffee and read something about the history of the place. The Neck is a narrow isthmus joining the Tasman Peninsula to Tasmania. In the days of the penal colony at Port Arthur this was an excellent position to prevent stray prisoners from reaching the rest of the island. To assist the soldiers in their work a line of 9 chained dogs were set up across the isthmus, just far enough apart to stop them fighting. Any prisoner coming their way would set up the alarm by barking, or worse if a prisoner tried to get through, non did.
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Drove on to Pirates Bay and parked the car at the Devils Kitchen car park. At 10am we started our tramp which first of all took us along an undulating tourist path along the cliff top, with sun and sea to our left, through shrubs and woodland. At various lookout points along the route informative signs had been erected. We stopped and read them whilst admiring the views of sea arches and high cliffs. At 10.35 we reached Waterfall Bay, so named because of a waterfall that plunges in to it, but at present no more than a dribble. From then on the path ceased to be of tourist quality, but was well worn, and started to climb through forest. Fantail hopped about and other birds could be heard with a ringing call. After 20 minutes we reached the junction for Waterfall Bluff. From here we climbed on a less walked track, first with the waterfall stream to our right but crossed a number of times as we made our way up the valley. Another half hour brought us to the Clemes Peak junction and in a further 10 minutes we broke out into more open ground to climb more slowly to Balts Spur and Lichen Hill (520m) which we reached at 11.40. As we descended, and before re-entering woodland, we had fine views over Cape Huay, Fortescue Bay and Cape Pillar. Apart from a few rocky bits the path was a pleasant woodland walk. At 12.35 we reached the junction where the two teams cutting the path met in October 1976 met. It seemed a good spot to stop for lunch with views from a lofty position looking across to the small rocky island of Hippolyte Rocks. As we sat the sun disappeared and a chill filled the air so after 50 minutes we moved on to continue following the cliff top path to reach the ? Headland after another 70 minutes, the sun reappearing as we went along. Making a final turn into Fortescue Bay the path descended rapidly down to sea level at Bivouac Bay. During the course of the day we had come across a number of skinks, a couple of snakes and a wallaby.
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After setting up camp we made ourselves a drink and sat on rocks in the sun, near the waters edge, watching a family of seagulls having a wash. They would sit on the water a first flap one wing and then the other to splash water under the wing. Sometimes they would flap both at the same time. They would also bob their heads under the water. Some bathed in the sea whilst others preferred a nearby fresh water pool. Once they had finished washing they settled themselves on a rock to dry out and sunbathe. After they had left we continued to sit on the flat rocks, absorbing their warmth, with small cliffs to our back, protecting us from the breeze, and a view across the bay in front of us, occasionally we would be startled by a splash as a lone seagull returned, but other than the call of birds all was quiet, not even the sound of waves lapping on the shore. One of the Bonuses was that there were very few flies about to spoil it all. At 6.05 the sun dropped below the trees and within a few minutes we were having to get into our warm clothing.
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Wednesday 25 February 2004
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Set off at 8.40, retracing our steps back up the steep climb to the headland. The sun shone in an almost clear sky with very little wind. Made good progress and by 11.50 we were back at the track junction for a short side trip to Morley's Lookout and Waterfall Bluff. We walked the section up to the lookout as it gave a good view over Waterfall Bay but we didn't go on to the bluff as we wouldn't be able to see anything new. For the first time since we left Waterfall Bay the previous day we met other walkers. This was the longest we have ever walked a track without meeting anyone. After 20 minutes we returned to the junction and continued down to Waterfall Bay. In our memory the path from Devils Kitchen to Waterfall Bay was reasonably flat, perhaps that was because we were on fresh legs and taking in the information on the sign boards. It had become much hillier in the previous 24 hours. Just before 1pm, in time for lunch, we reached the car.
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once refreshed and relaxed we took a stroll to view the cliff formations of the Devils Kitchen and the Tasman Arch then drove along to the Tasman Blowhole, all sites being popular. Having done the tourist things we drove to Port Arthur and on to another tourist attraction, the Remarkable Cave. As we were still too early to book in at the Youth Hostel we turned off down a side road call 'Dog Bark Road' to a golden sandy beach. We found out why it was given its name when a dog chased us barking for a good length of the road. Unfortunately there was no shade near the beach and so we returned and found another beach but couldn't get comfortable so in the end we sat in the car reading.
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Just after 5pm we drove round to the Roseview YHA, a former guest house, to be told that our booking shouldn't have been taken as the place was being renovated but that they had put a room aside for us, one that had been painted but hadn't had its new carpet yet.
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Thursday 26 February 2004
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Spent the day visiting the Port Arthur historic site. 40 hectares containing over 30 buildings and ruins from the convict era of the mid 19th century. Our concession tickets (YHA members) cost us A$17.50 each (#8). For this as well as access to the grounds we got a 40 minute guided tour with an excellent speaker and a 20 boat cruise around the bay to view the Island of the Dead where all burials took place and Point Puer, which housed the first juvenile prison. Once we had completed our guided tours we wondered around the site on our own, reading the many sign boards and learning how the site had developed from a convict colony for harvesting timber in 1830 to its peak around 1857, with over 30 trades employed building small ships, making building materials, clothing etc. The colony wasn't used for transportation prisoners but for prisoners who had re-offended in some way whilst in Australia. From 1857 when transportation ceased the convict population declined and the average age increased. By 1877 there were few able bodied men available to work the site and so it was closed down and the properties sold where possible, often just for reclaiming the building materials. In 1895 and 1897 bush fires further damaged those buildings that remained. In the second half of the 20th century the historical value of the site has been appreciated and buildings have been repurchased, restored, consolidated and turned into a major tour attraction. In all we spent 6 hours on the visit, but we rushed a little in places and could have spent longer.
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For a second activity of the day, after our evening meal we drove our via Nubeena (aborigine for crayfish) to the 'Coal Mines Heritage Site'. Here convicts from Port Arthur were sent to mine coal. Being sent to the mine was one of the punishment threats held over prisoners. Although it was starting to get dark we managed a short walk through the site, though again more time would have been useful.
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We sit alone in the hostel dining room eating our breakfast. Looking down on us are five black and white drawings/engravings, in heavy framed, of Victorian soldiers and administrators; stern faced all; not even a slight upturn at the edge of the mouths from any of them. Between them are paper notices exhorting us not to move the tables and to clear up after ourselves. Around three walls of the room are arranged five old wooden kitchen tables surrounded by an assortment of chairs and benches. On the forth wall is an abused 1950s sideboard with a few motley games on top. In a corner near the door stands an upright piano and above it a modern lamp. The walls are well painted, but in the style of a bygone age, with the bottom wooden half painted brown and the upper half cream. The floor is bare boards. On the outside wall is a black, wood burning stove
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Roseview - YHA Port Arthur
The first building erected on this site was destroyed in a bush fire in 1895.
Another was built and named Roseview Guest House.
In 1925-26 Roseview was owned by Mrs Alice Barnett and had accommodation for 25 guests.
In 1946 the guest house was valued at Sixteen hundred Pounds, with the land extra at One hundred and Fifty Pounds.
Mrs Barnett died around 1953 and the building was leased to Mrs Wilds for Four Pounds per week, the building was leased to a G.Wilds for five years.
In 1955 water was connected to Roseview.
The Hotel Arthur took over Roseview in 1960 but decided to surrender the lease as the building required too much work.
Roseview was then declared derelict.
In July 1968 The Youth Hostels Association took over Roseview and reopened the building in 1971.
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Called in at the Tasmanian Devil Park to look at the feeding of the devils and also to view some of their other wildlife exhibits. First of we stop at the Tasmanian tiger (thylacine) exhibit. Although officially extinct, it is thought by many to still exist out in the wild. A sighting was reported on the good authority by a flora and fauna expert from the Parks & Wildlife Service. The tiger has dog like features but is not related to the dog but evolved to fill a similarities niche. At 10.00 we had the feeding of the young Tasmanian devils. Like other Australian animals they are marsupials but they are carnivores whilst most of the others are plant eaters. They are scavengers rather than hunters and will eat anything and everything down to the bones, fur and feathers. Tasmanian devils done understand the meaning of sharing and the young ones preferred to fight over someone else's scrap rather than pick up an unclaimed piece. They were very amusing to watch. After the feeding we strolled around the rest of the grounds looking at the birds that were being cared for and the wallabies hopping around freely in the park. At 11.00 it was adult devils feeding time. They were much better organised and once each had claimed a piece of carcass they settled to devour it as quickly as possible before then trying to take someone else's. Finally we had the bird flying display, which wasn't greatly interesting as it consisted of four birds, two of whom weren't able to fly because of injuries.
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Continued back to Hobart calling in at Richmond, with the oldest bridge still in use in Australia, plus many colonial houses. It very much catered for the tourist trade, on the front street if a building wasn't a guest house or shop then it was a tea room.
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At Hobart we visited the camping shops to stock up on dehydrated meals ready for our big trek and then back to the hostel for laundry and odd jobs.
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Saturday 28 February 2004
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Left Hobart travelling south to follow the Huon driving trail which from Hobart follows the coastline along the D'Entrecasteaux Channel, named after a French admiral who did the originally survey of the area. Along the way sign boards had been erected providing information about various aspects of the area. Our first stop was Tinderbox, overlooking Bruny Island. A small beach bordered a marine reserve that contained a snorkel trail. Then round the North West Bay to Margate where in a siding, beside the road stands the last passenger train to run in Tasmania. The coaches have been turned into a number of small shops, a restaurant and a barbers. Nearby was a second hand furniture warehouse named 'The good, the bad & the ugly' it seemed to deal mostly in the latter. On through Snug, so called because the bay provided a calm, sheltered harbour, to Kettering. Stopped for a while to look around the harbour from where the ferry crosses to Bruny Island. At the moorings, on a flat sea, lay numerous boats from small dinghies to large luxury yachts. Keeping to the coast road we made our way to Cygnet, (shortened from its original name of Port de Cygne Noir, port of the black swan, so called because of the many black swans in t e bay). Stopped on the way to eat our lunch on a small beach looking over to Bruny Island. Round the coast again and up to Huonville to cross the Huon River and continued south down its west side to Geeveston with its Forest & Heritage Centre. Spent a little time looking around, having just beaten a coach party through the door, before driving out to the 'Air Walk' at Tahune Forest Reserve. The Airwalk in a elevated steel path, 35m above the ground, through the tree canopy. One section is a cantilever that stretches out over the Picton River. Although secured it still waved about with the motion of people walking on it. Even though the Airwalk is 29km on a road to nowhere, it was immensely popular, this time we did get caught behind a bas tour and on the walk ways there was on chance of getting passed. The sunny weather turned to drizzle whilst we were on the walkway, and so be got a little damp. On the way back to Geeveston we stopped of at a couple of lookouts and to a side trip up to the Hartz Mountains , but as the weather was not good for views we didn't stay long. From Geeveston, still on the coast road we headed for Dover where we found the Dover Beachside Tourist Park and as it was nearly 7.00 we booked in for a camp pitch for the night.
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Return to Hobart using the main roads but turned off after Lower Longley to Fern Hill so that we could see the start of the track up Mount Wellington. Drove straight through Hobart and north through Glenorchy to New Norfolk where we stopped for a few groceries before continuing along the south bank of the River Derwent.
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From Bushy Park, where hops were being grown in plots protected from the wind by tall poplar trees, we climbed through rolling hills. Fields with sheep and cattle were also edged by trees, with small stands of trees dotted about. In front of us were the Mount Field tops were dusted with snow. In the pine trees now lining the road , cockatoos were feeding on the cones. At Westerway we turned left to, follow a railway line and the Tyenna River up to Mount Field NP. Ate our sandwiches in the car park just as the intermittent drizzle turned more persistent. Undaunted, we donned our ponchos and set off to visit the Russell Falls, then pressed on to the nearby Horseshoe Falls. With the rain easing a little we continued to the Tall Trees Loop where interpretation boards told us more about the tall eucylipts standing around. Finally with the rain completely stopped we finished of with a visit to Lady Barron's Falls before returning to the Visitors Centre, just as the drizzle returned.
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With plenty of time to spare we decided to drive out to Lake Pedder and Strathgordon, a further 80km up the road. The winding but well made road was constructed for access to build the controversial hydro-electric scheme in ? which involved the damming of the Gordon river and Lake Pedder. As we drove along dense clouds of steam rose from the road surface as it dried in the sun. Every few kilometres at a clearing by the side of the road would be a stack of 20-30 bee hives. The further along the road we progressed the more barren the landscape became. At la t we reached Lake Pedder with numerous islands and bays and bays within bays. Part of the controversy of the flooding of Lake Pedder was that it was a small beautiful lake, but the lake that has resulted also has very interesting features. Passed through Strathgordon and on up to Lake Gordon, as we arrived at the lookout point the rain returned with a vengeance so we sat for 10 minutes until it eased and we were able to get our photos. Although its 30 years since the construction, there are still tree bare trunks standing upright in the water. Finished off by calling in at the hydro-electric scheme visitors centre before driving back to Maydena.
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We had the road name for where the youth hostel was, but after driving up and down the road we couldn't spot it so we called in at the Post Office, they thought that it was at the 'Giant's Table', which had looked to be the most likely, though there was no hostel sign outside. It turned out that this was in fact the case, though they seemed a bit reluctant to advertise the fact, perhaps they were concerned that it would detract from the rest of their business. The Giant's Table had two particular features, one was a wood fire, which was most welcome; the other was a small lake at the rear with duckbilled platypus. After diner, with dusk about to commence we walked by the lake. We were fortunate to see the platypus swimming and diving, but not close enough to be able to take a photo. Returned to the warmth of the fire
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Drove up a road, constructed in the 1930s, as part of a job creation scheme, to Lake Dobson area, which in winter is used by skiers. The road twisted and turned upwards through four different vegetation levels, eucylipts, mixed woodland, sub alpine and alpine. As the height increased the diversity of plants increased rather than the more usual opposite. Parked at the end of the permitted road beside Lake Dobson, and before setting off registered our intentions in a book in a visitors hut. Well wrapped against the cold wind we set off around the west side of Eagle Tarn before ascending on the Urquhart Track to pick up a road to the ski lodges. Beside the road patches of snow still lay. From the lodges we started to climb a rocky path, through snow gums, partly covered in snow, making the going a little tricky. Emerged at the top to walk on boards also covered in snow, over water and rock covered ground. After walking for about half an hour with very few views because of the low cloud and having to tread carefully on the boards and rocks, we decided to turn around. As we descended on paths running with melt water the sun tried to break through but cloud remained on the hills. Returned to the car park this time using the Pandani Path and then back to the visitors centre for lunch. Chose and excellent home-made beef burger and salmon burger.
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Refreshed we set off on the long drive to Strahan, following the A10 through virtually unpopulated forest until with the petrol tank almost on red we reached Queenstown, a mining town sitting in a wilderness of its own making. Filled up the tank again and continued to Strahan to complete our journey.
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After a cold night with indications of a possible frost, the day broke clear and cloudless. Spent an easy day sight seeing around Strahan. Walked in to town and browsed some of the shops for huon pine, visited Morrison's sawmill and then walked out to Regatta Point where the Abt railway station was. On the way back we called in at the People's Park and walked to the Hogarth Falls. After lunch on a park bench overlooking the bay we returned to the hostel and picked up the car to drive to some local views. First past the station to the King River, but the road came to an end before any views were reached. Then out to Macquarie Heads and past Hells Gates, walked along the sand for a while before driving round to Ocean Beach. Sat for a while but the flies became annoying so returned to town ready to watch a performance of 'The Ship that never was', a comical sketch with a great amount of audience participation about ten convicts who escape to Chile in a ship they have helped to build. When four of them are caught a year later they are tried for piracy which carried the death penalty but due to lack of paperwork to prove that a ship ever existed, they instead were able to claim that the crime was the theft of a quantity of wood. Finished off with fish and chips, well cooked but the fish was on the small side.
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Left Strahan, heading north in a series of hops and headed up to Henty Dunes where we struggled up the steep sides and walked over the undulating tops. Then on again through coastal scrub to a lookout point where we read all about the moorland close by. Next was Zeehan where we stopped for petrol before taking on what could have been a long stretch without a garage. With the sun dimly shining behind thin dappled clouds we passed the one of the worlds largest underground tin mine on our way to Rosebery. At Tullah we stopped for a drink and read that the first headmaster when the school opened in 1905 was Joseph A Lyons, a name that meant little to us but a celebrity in this corner of Tasmania. In 1923 he became premier of Tasmania and in 1931 premier of Australia, the only person to have been both a state and national premier. At Wynyard we stopped by the sea shore and ate our lunch before taking a drive round to Table Cape, with its light house on a high promontory calling in on the way at Fossil Bluff where the rocks from the crumbling cliff contain thousands of small sea shells. Walked along the shore looking at the rocks and gazing into rock pools. This northern coast of Tasmania is the most populated with all the large towns, except for Hobart, and many small villages set in farming country. Boat Harbour Beach came next, voted one of the top beaches in Australia. Ate an ice cream whilst we walked on its sands. Last stop before Stanley was Rocky Cape, an area revered by the Aborigines. At Stanley we found that the hostel was in fact part of the caravan park, so quickly located it and booked in.
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After dinner we decided to take a walk to the top of the local headland known as 'The Nut', a round hill rising almost vertically. In the twilight with a strong but warm breeze we walked the path around the edge.
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During the night the wind could be heard gusting around the hostel. But by morning, when we set out for a quick scenic drive of Stanley, it had moderated considerably, though the sky was gloomy with low cloud. First of all did a quick pass through town, passing such sights as the Van Deiman Store and Joseph Lyon's birth place before heading out to Hillside, the home of the chief agent of the Van Diemanland Company. Then back along the main coast road we had travelled the previous day and on to Burnie, were we called into the Visitors Centre to check out the options. We decided to make three visits, first to the Creative Paper Mill where they produced hand made paper (we didn't find anything to buy); on to the Lactos factory where a wide variety of cheeses are made (we bought some soft cheese); and finally to Ferndale for a walk along the river. Platypus are reported to live in the river, but as they are only normally seen at dawn or dusk we were out of luck. Then on to the strange but apparently aptly named town of Penguin where we sat for lunch over looking the bay and speculating on trying to explain to someone that you lived in Penguin. The last but one town of the day was Ulverstone where we stocked up on shopping ready for the Overland Trail and also topped up the fuel tank ready for returning the hire car. Drove on in to Devonport and first visited the headland site of the Tia?? Museum. Had a look around the shop but didn't bother with the museum. There was a trail on the headland which went passed aboriginal rock engravings but it was poorly marked and not interpreted at all. Before going to the hostel we decided to check out where it was we had to return the car to, which was just as well as they had moved from the address we had and we had to drive around to find them, made harder by the fact that the garage had a different name. We then dropped off our gear at the hostel before returning the car.
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Spent the evening rearranging our equipment ready for starting the Overland Trail.
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Up early for a 35 minute walk down to the Visitors Centre to catch the 8.30 bus out to Cradle Mountain. The sun was just startling to creep above the horizon clouds as we made our way to the town centre - it looked like it could be a good day. Stopped briefly on the way to shoot off an email to everyone to tell them we wouldn't be around for a week.
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Left spot on time to drive through the hills to Sheffield. as we approached Sheffield Mount Ronald stood out in the bright morning sun. At 10.15 we arrived at Cradle Mountain National Park.
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A few minutes late, just after 11.00 we were collected and taken down to the Derwent Bridge Hotel and settled into our room, turning on the heating to warm ourselves up. Our next treat was a good hot shower to wash away 6 days of sweat. And finally, before a siesta, was a bowl of soup and a toasted sandwich in the restaurant.
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Later in the evening after a relaxing afternoon recovering our strength we again visited the restaurant to top up on our protein with a roast beef dinner.
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With the bus not leaving until 10.20 we were able to enjoy a bit of a lay-in, a leisurely breakfast and take our time packing our few things. Got picked up on time and drove to Queenstown for which the bus driver could only think of four good things about it; the two roads going out of it, the railway and the airport. Changed driver and continued around, being higher up we had better views than when we had travelled the same roads in the car. At one point crossing the road and nearly getting run over was an echidna, similar in appearance to a hedgehog. When we pulled into Cradle Mountain for a rest stop we saw on a sign that they were giving away a free glass of beer on presentation of a Park Pass, so we availed ourselves of the offer. The bus we were travelling on was not feeling on top form and struggled to get up some of the hills but we finally made it into Devonport half an hour late. First we made a quick visit to check on email, then a bite to eat and a minimum of shopping before walking out to the Youth Hostel for two nights stay.
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Spent the day quietly, doing a few jobs and shopping. First we put through a load of washing and then walked into Devonport town centre where we spent an hour catching up on the Internet. Had a beefburger and then walked out along the shore of the Mersey for half an hour, by which time it was time to turn around and catch the small ferry over to East Devonport to collect the hire car. Whilst over that side we took the opportunity to drive out to ? An inlet about 20km east of Devonport and then on to ? a prosperous village where we stopped for an ice cream. Returned to Devonport to shop for groceries ready for our Walls of Jerusalem walk. Back to the hostel where we spent the rest of the day arranging our kit.
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Left the hostel around 8.30 and drove out to Sheffield, arriving just before nine. Sheffield is a town of murals, first paint in ? as a tourist attraction when the town was looking for something to raise its profile. Spent an hour walking around viewing the murals, some excellent, others a bit amateurish for about an hour and then drove out to the start of the Walls of Jerusalem Track, arriving at 11.00.
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With relief we removed our boot and then drove out to the 'Mersey White Water Reserve', an area sometimes used for canoeing championships, with water released from Lake Rowallan. Although not a proper camping area there was a toilet and nothing to say that you couldn't camp.
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The night was dark and clear giving a great view of the stars. The 'Milky Way' was clearer than we had seen for many year, almost glowing.
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Woke up to a misty morning. After breakfast, with the sun trying to break through, whilst we waited for the tent to dry out, we caught up on our reading and diaries.
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For the day we planned to make a number of short visits to some of the local attractions. First off we drove out north to 'Devils Gullet', a lookout point with views across the Fisher River towards the peaks of Cradle Mountain - Lake St Clair NP. Unfortunately the clouds were low on the hills and so didn't do it justice. Next up was 'King Solomons Cave', we arrived at 11.45, too late for the programmed 11.30 guided tour. But we were in luck, that tour had been full up so they were about to start another extra tour that we joined. The cave was a little different to those we had seen previously, it was only about 9m below ground level and so some thin tree roots sometimes broke through the roof and became calcified. There were also many long 'straws', the start of a stalactite. The water carrying calcium carbonate formed a drip at the end of a straw and the calcium carbonate collected around the outside of the drip before drying out. The straw only started to turn into a normal stalactite when the centre of the straw became accidentally blocked and water started to seep around the sides. The straw are very delicate, a puff of wind could break them and yet a recent earthquake measuring almost 5 on the Richter scale didn't break any. Another formation was helictites, these were very slow growing stalactites were calcium carbonate crystals were allowed to form which shot off at various angles.
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Then on to the Marakoopa Cave, arriving just on 1 o'clock, just as a tour was leaving. We were told to tag on the end and pay when we came out. This wasn't nearly as interesting as the previous cave with the exception of a female Tasmanian cave spider, a large spider that lives entirely in the dark it was about to be joined by its mate, something that the guide had never seen before as the male tends to be a little wary of being eaten by the female.
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Drove on to Mole Creek where we stopped for an excellent lunch of home-made fare at the Laurelberry Restaurant. Moved on to Alum Cliffs Lookout which looks across the Mersey River to the shear cliffs, known to the aborigines as Tulunpunga, a sacred place of celebration. The walk was described as having some gentle uphill sections, but we were glad we were fit enough to tackle it.
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Having done so well in getting the 'Walls of Jerusalem' completed in two days we had a spare day, so instead of staying in the Mole Creek area we decided to drive up to Narawntapu NP calling in at Deloraine on the way to pick up a few extra supplies. Narawntapu NP used to be called Asbestos NP, and the local range of hills still goes by the name of the Asbestos Range, but it was thought that the original name might put people off from visiting.
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Arrived at 5 o'clock and were welcomed by a wombat quietly grazing on the grass. Once we had worked out how to self register our camp site we pitched our tent our of the wind and settled in.
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After tea we took a walk down to the Bird Hide through areas of swamp behind heavily vegetated sand dunes. Pademelons, more common than rabbits on a summers evening, skipped about. Too timid to allow you to get too close, but not frightened once they had move off a short way. Also flitting about in the branches were fantails. Stayed for a while at the hide observing the many coots, a few plovers, a couple of swamp hens, and across the lagoon, on the shore, some Forester Kangaroos.
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Woke to the sound of bird calls and pademelons rubbing against our guy ropes. The sun was shining straight onto our tent and the sky was clear. Wrens darted about in a nearby bush.
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With time on our hands we walked back passed the bird hide through legions of pademelon and continued up the track lined with swamp paperbark Melaleuca ericifolia coast wattle Acacia sophora and banksia, amongst others. Our aim was the short climb up Archers Knob which provided us with a view back over the park. From Archers Knob we took the path to Bakers Beach and walked along to the end. As we neared the end we spotted a quoll tugging at some sea weed. We had enough time to get a long distance photo before he saw us and disappeared into the bush. From the end of the beach we climbed up over Little Badger Head and down into Copper Cove where we had a brief early lunch before being seen off by the flies.
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Returned to camp along the same track, on the way spotting a number of birds; the hooded plover, black cockatoo and a couple of varieties we need to look up. On the beach were thousands of small (1cm) crabs all walking west, away from the sun.Got back to the car at 12.30 and packed away the tent. Before leaving the park we drove out to Bakers Point and Griffiths Point where we came up on a bank of sea shells washed up on the shore, about 15m long 3m wide and 100cm deep. There were many different varieties but most were broken.
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Drove down to Deloraine using a back road, just for a change of view and booked into the YHA for the night.
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Drove the short journey to Launceston, going first to the Cataract Gorge Reserve, an area just outside the centre of Launceston which is popular with locals and tourists. Lots of peacocks, sparrows and wasps. We had planned to walk from the 'First Basin' up past the 'Second Basin' to the 'Duck Reach Power Station' using the 'Duck Reach Walk', unfortunately it was closed for maintenance to the 'Alexandra Suspension Bridge'. Instead we climbed briefly to the Cataract Lookout and then followed Main Walk along the north side of the South Esk River down to Kings Bridge. The walk had been constructed in the late 19th century by the Launceston City and Suburb Improvement Association to provide access to Cataract Gorge where they laid out a pleasure garden. We returned to Cataract Gorge using the Zigzag Track on the south side of the river. By this time it was time for lunch so we sat at a picnic bench for a few minutes, but the wasps were too much of a nuisance so we returned to the car. As we hadn't been able to walk to Duck Reach Power Station we drove instead. The power station was the first major hydro-electric station in Australia, using water from the South Esk River. Built at the end of the 19th century, its power was used to light the streets of Launceston, run trams and supply homes.
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In mid afternoon we found our way to the youth hostel at the Metro Backpackers and booked in. The rest of the afternoon was spent shopping and exploring the city.
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Spent the first part of the morning exploring the southern end of Launceston looking for the Woolworth's supermarket that we were told was out that way and then trying to get across to the road to take us out to Ben Lomand, but finally we made it.
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At 11.45 we arrived at Carr Villa, a scout hut at the start of the track to Legges Tor (1572m). Once this was thought to be the highest point in Tasmania, but was found to be lower than Mount Ossa. With a cool wind blowing we set off on a well formed stony path through boulders before climbing steeply up 'Big Opening', passed 'Misery Bluff' to our left, to reach an area of moorland with a more gentle rise. Ski poles marked the way taking us across more boulders and a short climb up on to 'Plains of Heaven', an plateau of grass and rocks. At the end of the plateau, beneath the tor, stood three ski hut, one in good repair, one dilapidated, and one fallen down. Followed the poles around to make the final 75m climb to the cairn on top of Legges Tor, arriving after an hours walk.
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We didn't stay around too long as a cold wind was blowing. As we made our way back down the wind started to throw spots of rain at us and it became a race to get back to the car before any rain began. We won.
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Drove out of the Ben Lomand National Park and picked up the C405 to join the A3. The unsealed road was not well signed and until we emerged at A we were not completely sure we were going the right was. Continued east on the A3 to Scottsdale where we called in at the Eco centre and spent about half an hour looking around at the displays before completing our journey to St Helens. The area was a big on forestry, with also a good smattering of agriculture.
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For today we took a drive around the north east corner of Tasmania. First port of call was Binalong Bay, just north of St Helens, with nicely rounded rocks painted with a red algae. We then continued further up the road to take a look at the Bay of Fires from Sloop Lagoon. To get much further north we first had to return south, cut across on the C849 to pick up the C843 to take us north through a mixture of pasture and forest to the small community of Ansons Bay. Spent a few minutes admiring the view before driving round to the Eddystone Lighthouse in the Mount William NP. Close to the light were three unoccupied houses all in good repair. The site is supposed to be historic, but there was nothing to tell us anything about the site. Around the base of the light lay a couple of dozen dead sea birds having presumably flown into the light.
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Our next objective was to walk up to the top of Mount William, all 216m of it. So we again took to the unsealed road to go west, north-west, then north-east, at least doubling the direct distance. The road dust was startling to find its way into the car giving everything a light coating. When we arrived we found that the first road to the trailhead was closed, so hoping to get in by an alternative route we drove on only to find that closed as well. Apparently there had been a major flood a couple of months previously which had washed away sections of the road. In a strong breeze we stood above Stumpys Bay considering our options. As there was nothing else to do we drove to Gladstone and down the B82 to take a look at Little Blue Lake, a lake created by mining activities which has resulted in giving the waters a light blue colour. Continued south to pick up the A3 we had travelled on the previous day, this time stopping at the cheese factory at Pyengana to sample and buy some cheese and also take refreshments. Nearby were the St Columba Falls, claimed to be the highest in Tasmania, which we were told were worth a visit and so we continued out to visit them. From a photographic point of view the sun was in the wrong place being just above the falls. Returned to Pyengana and enquired at the Pub in the Paddock about rooms for the night. They had one, in fact they had six and the price was similar to what we would pay in a hostel and so we decided to stay for the night.
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Again we started the day in bright sunshine but by midmorning it started to cloud up. Called in at St Helens for bread and Internet and then continued down the coast, stopping just out side Scamander to admire the beach and grass covered sand dune. Continued along the coast until we had nearly reached Bicheno where we turned inland to enter the Douglas- Apsley National Park. The walk that we wanted to do was the Apsley Gorge circuit, so we packed our rucksack and made our way first to the Apsley Waterhole, a large pool in the river used for swimming. Stepped across the boulders that had been used to dam the river and started to climb through forest on the other side. After a while the climb ceased and we continued for a way across a plateau before dropping down to the Apsley River. Found ourselves a comfortable boulder on which to sit for our lunch and watched a robin? flitting around the riverside trees. In the pools a fish was jumping and something was causing circular ripples, but we couldn't see anything at all.
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The walk from this point followed the river. There was no marked trail and we had to choose which ever route we felt best through the boulders and over rock shelves, switching from side to side to avoid steep sides. Sometimes the river would disappear under ground and reappear trickling through pebbles, gurgling through crevasses and lapping over rocks to tumble down into large pools and then lay still again. In the sunshine, with the sound of the river and the occasional call of a bird, and the challenge of boulder hopping, this was a walk to remember. After an hour and a half along the river we found ourselves back at Apsley Waterhole and made our way back to the car.
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Returned to the coast road and continued on south for a few kilometres before taking the C302 down the Freycinet Peninsula to Coles Bay. Called in at the National Parks Information Centre to find where we could camp and found ourselves a spot near the toilets, overlooking Richardsons Beach. The rest of the afternoon, after we had taken a short excursion in to Coles Bay, was spent lazing in the sun.
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The walk to Cooks Beach camp site is 31km an scheduled as 2 days easy going. One of the problems is that there is often a water shortage, though we were assured that the tanks were full. We decided to do the walk in one day with just light packs, it would also cut off 3km as we wouldn't need to walk to the camp site.
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Drove down to the trail head and filled in the register. At 8.50 we set off, descending pink granite steps in to woodland to following a slightly undulating sandy path through bush. The sun was starting to appear through the tree branches with occasional melodic bird calls accompanying us on our way. On granite steps and rocks we climbed over a higher section round Fleurieu Point, the path, sometimes shaded, becoming more undulating
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After an hour we reached Lemana Lookout, though the sights were not very impressive and a further fifteen minutes took us to Hazards Beach. It was almost high tide and so we walked along through sea weed, oyster, scallop and other shells, stopping to pick up the best. Another fifteen minutes brought us to the path that led across to Wineglass Bay, this is a popular day circuit, however, we continued along the beach. At 10.50 we reached the end of the beach and sat for 10 minutes in a brisk southerly breeze to enjoy a break and sort out our shells. The path continued through woodland, dropping down into creek beds, some dry, some muddy and a couple with a thin trickle of water. Birds continued to be difficult to spot in the trees, in spite of their distinctive calls. Managed to see a yellow chested wattle, a robin and some parrots.
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At 11.55 we reached Cooks Beach and took another ten minute break before turning in land at first on a level track and then climbing steeply across face of Mount Freycinet. After 15 minutes the path levelled out to climb more gently up to East Freycinet Saddle. Climbed again to emerge into the sun shine with Wineglass Bay to our left and Mount Graham in front of us. As we climbed higher Hazards Bay also came into view on the left. At 13.55 we reached the top of the path, just a short side trip to the summit, with views in all directions. After twenty minutes we started our descent down a steep awkward path with wet and polished rocks to reach an area of plateau with small granite bluffs. The path remained rough as we made our way down to Wineglass Bay. The tide was now out and so we were able to walk below the high tide mark, though the sand was a little soft. From the end of the bay, because the path was heavily used it was much better maintained. Soon the path became one long series of rough granite steps as we climbed up between Mount Mayson and Mount Amos. One final look back over the south of the peninsula from a lookout point and we made our way down, pausing on the way to read information boards about the landscape we were passing through. Finally at 17.15 we were back at the car park signing ourselves out. And still reasonably fresh.
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instead of cooking for the evening we visited a local sea food cafi, 'The Oystercatcher'. We had planned to have fish and chips but it wasn't quite that easy as we had a choice of five types of fish, we chose the blue eye trevalla.
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Packed up most of our camp and while the tent finished drying we drove out to the nearby view point on Cape Tourville. Popped in to Coles Bay to take a photo of 'The Hazards' in the morning sun and then drove on to Swansea. On the road in were row after row of walnut trees. Once known as Greater Swanport it is a popular town of the east coast. In town is the Morris General Store, built around 1839 and taken over by the Morris family in 1860 and still managed by them.
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Returned back up the A3 to take B34 out to Campbell Town and then the A1 south to Ross where we stopped to eat our lunch, visited the Tasmanian Wool Centre and the historical Ross Bridge. Then down to Oatlands and cross country to Buckland. From there we turned up the coast, through Orford to Triabunna and our YHA at the 'Udda Backpackers'.
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A cold frosty night, the price we paid for clear sunny days. Finished organising our bags, we were leaving our car and items we didn't require on the island at the hostel. Walked down to the ferry jetty about 1km away, warming up in the morning sun. The ferry left at 9.30 for a pleasant gentle cruise across the Mercury Passage to Maria Island.
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At 10.30 we landed on the island at the site of the penal colony known as Darlington, and sorted out our accommodation which was a six bed room in the Penitentiary block. The six rooms that formed the Penitentiary and housed 66 prisoners each were divided into 12 rooms to house workers for the cement plant in the 1920s.
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At 11.00 we set off for a walk up to Bishop and Clerk, an outcrop of rocks claimed to look like a bishop in his mitre followed by his clerk, though we couldn't see it ourselves. The first part of the walk took us through a lightly wooded area where we spotted a crimson robin, then our onto open downs with steep cliffs dropping to the sea. The initial short, steep climb was a little like the 'Seven Sisters' on the Sussex coast. The broad track entered an avenue of she-oaks, which as we ascended gave way to eucalypts. The track dropped onto a saddle and from this point the way became narrower, steeper and less even until we came to an area of scree when the going became even harder. A reasonable path zigzagged up through the scree taking us to near the top with the last short section being a scramble up rocks. At 12.40 we reached the top and were rewarded with good views in all directions, except south. A thin high cloud blocked of most of the suns rays, yet it was still reasonably warm and so we sat and ate our sandwiches whilst swifts glided all around us. After half an hour we started our descent, getting back to the junction with the path to Fossil Cliffs at 2.30.
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Instead of returning back to the village we continued on around the coast to the Fossil Cliffs. In the rock were thousands of oyster shells but otherwise not very exciting. Continued on passed the landing strip (can't think why they need one) and the small cemetery back to the village.
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After a short break we walked out to the Painted Cliffs which we were informed were most accessible 2 hours either side of low tide. A sandstone formation coloured by ground water percolating down through and staining it. The patterns seemed to have the effect of veneered wood. Returned to the penitentiary via the Oast House. Wit dusk falling we were treated to an abundance of wildlife, Forester kangaroos, Bennett wallabies, wombat, kookaburra and many other birds.
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Lit the fire in our room and spent the evening sitting beside it reading.
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The fire had burnt itself out, but the room was still warm when we got up at 7.45. After breakfast and packing up we took a self guided walk around the 'Reservoir Circuit', this was mostly a nature trail with information on the flora and fauna both on the leaflet we had picked up at the information centre and on boards along the route.
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After the walk we explored the buildings close to the Penitentiary, the Coffee Palace, the mess hall, and Smith-O'Brien's cottage. We wished we had realised what a lot of information they contained earlier then we could have spent the previous evening looking around.
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Returned to the jetty in time for the 12.30 ferry. On the incoming ferry was a party of school children who would be camping for two nights, with all the equipment they could have stayed for two months. It took them a quarter of an hour to unload everything onto the jetty. It was as well we were leaving and not arriving. A little late we left for Triabunna.
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Although Maria Island was mentioned in 'Lonely Planet' and we were able to pick up a couple of leaflets on it, nothing gave the impression that there was so much that could be done there. Our one day was not really enough, if we ever return to Tasmania we will revisit the island.
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Docked and walked up to the hostel, loaded the car and drove to Hobart. We were a little early for the hostel opening and there were a couple of places we had missed the first time through Hobart and so we continued on through to first visit the Cascades Brewery, and then on to the Shot Tower at Taroona.
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After shopping, just to cover us for the next couple of days, we drove to the hostel for our final two nights in Tasmania.
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When first in Hobart we had planned to climb Mount Wellington that sits above Hobart, but the weather had not been suitable, and so we had decided to wait. Today was fine and the top of Mount Wellington clear and so we drove out to Fern Trees, to the start of a track up Wellington. Parked the car and set off at 9.30 on the aptly named Fern Glade Track that climbed up a dry creek bed through fern trees. The Fern Glade Track was one of a number that climbed and crossed Mount Wellington and it wasn't always obvious which were witch. After 20 minutes we reached a junction with the Radfords Track and a memorial to G H Radford who in 1903 had died during a race on Mount Wellington. Turned left and continued to climb on the Radfords Track, warm with exertion the weather too cool to remove our fleeces. Reached 'The Springs' and read that this was the traditional starting point for climbing Mount Wellington, we could have driven there and cut 300m from our climb. From here we continued on the Pinnacle Track with views of Hobart through the thinning bushes. We were now too warm and so finally removed our fleeces. At the end of the Pinnacle Track was the Zigzag Track a steep stepped climb up the final section to the top with just a steady walk to the peak at the end. As we came over the steep section the wind began to blow. The further we went the harder it blew son that by the time we reached the peak it was difficult to stand up. Nearby was a visitors shelter which we made our way to as quickly as possible. Standing out of the wind we could read the information boards telling us about the views we were looking at. The noise of the wind blowing around the building was almost deafening. After 20 minutes we left the shelter of information centre and made our way back to the Zigzag Track, with the wind behind us. As soon as we stared our descent the wind dropped and within a couple of minutes we reached a stone seat with views over Hobart and although it wasn't quite lunch time we thought it too good a spot to pass. After about 15 minutes we were joined by a group of 10 women and one man. After chatting briefly we continued on our way, down to the Organ Pipes Track. We must have blinked as we missed seeing the Organ Pipes from the track, all we saw was bush. The Organ Pipes Track finished at 'The Chalet' and from there we turned down Hunters Track. As we went we were aware of the wind starting to blow through the tree tops and a black cloud following us. The track descended steeply and then crossed over a boulder field. The rain we had been trying to keep ahead of over took us and we were caught in a heavy shower. After 5 minutes we reached Junction Cabin where we were able to take a few minutes sorting ourselves out for the rest of the walk which we had decided should be by the most direct route back to the car. This was via The Springs and back down the track we had come up on. As we continued the rain eased and by the time we reached the car at 3.00 our waterproofs were almost dry.
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Drove back into town and dropped off the hire car before going on the Internet and then visiting Kathmandu, who we discovered had a members sale.
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Walked back to the hostel to get ready to leave Tasmania.
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Got up as normal and complete packing. We had arranged for the airport bus to pick us up at 9.00 from the hostel, and only a few minutes late it arrived and sped us on our way.
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With plenty of time to spare we sat around at the airport reading until it was time for our 12.35 flight to Melbourne.
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