|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Kilimanjaro is made up of three main volcanic peaks, Shira, Mawenzi and Kibo at 5896m and 300,000 years old the highest peak and the one we would be climbing. It is also the highest peak in Africa, the highest free-standing mountain in the world and the highest peak in the world that can be reached by walkers.
|
|
During the trek 5 zones are passed through - cultivated, mountain forest, giant heather, moorland and alpine.
|
|
The daily routine for the walk in to the bottom of Kibo was:-
|
|
Day 6 - Thursday 15 August 2002
|
|
After completing the necessary registration formalities, we transfer by Landrovers to Nalemoru (1,950 m.) to begin our climb on this unspoilt wilderness route. The first day is only a half-day walk on a small path that winds through farmland and pine plantations. It is a consistent but gentle climb through attractive forest that shelters a variety of wildlife. We reach our first overnight stop by late afternoon at the edge of the moorland zone (2,600m.). Camp.
|
|
Awoke to a beautiful sunny morning with the birds singing. It was still 30 min until the alarm but having had a good nights sleep we got up finished packing and had a walk in the grounds before breakfast.
|
|
Started out in good time for our journey to Nalemoru. The rains of the previous day had turned the dust to mud creating the spectator sport of watching buses and trucks trying to make progress, in the villages that we passed by every couple of miles. It was just as well we were in 4x4s, the only hazard we had was getting round the obstructions.
|
|
To ride these roads you need to be fit to hang on to the seats.
|
|
Between the village we passed through rich farmland growing bananas and small fields of other crops. The appearance was that we were steadily climbing but in fact we were keeping to the same height, but winding in and out of the deep valleys that cut into the hillside. Vehicles do not drive on the left or right but on the best side of the road.
|
|
Smaller rougher side roads disappeared between the plantations.
|
|
The population density of the area must be quite high there were people all along the roadside waiting for buses, walking or talking. Women in bright dresses carried water in yellow tubs on their heads, as well as bananas, wood, flour etc.
|
|
Every couple of miles we would pass through a small village and now and then a larger township. Hairdressers, churches, schools and cafe bars seemed to be the main buildings
|
|
As we entered the rain shadow of Kilimanjaro the vegetation while still plentiful was less dense.
|
|
Towards the end sawmills and carpentry were major industries, cultivated pine forests with maze planted between the trees replaced banana plantations.
|
Porters
|
Finally we arrived at midday to complete the formalities and meet up with our porters. Looking over to the north we could see the plains of southern Kenya.
Picked up our packed lunch and at 1.00 in patchy sunshine started to climb slowly on a dusty farm track accompanied at various stages by groups of children.
Crops of maze and potatoes were growing in the open fields until we entered a forest and stopped for lunch.
|
|
Resumed on our way up through giant heather, stopping once for a break, we reached our first nights camp just before 5pm.
|
|
Found our tents, that had already been erected and settled in. Continuing our policy of drinking plenty we had a large mug of tea and then took a short walk before dinner to stretch our legs.
|
|
At 7pm it was already dark as we sat down to dinner consisting of soup (more liquid), fish, vegetables, and fruit salad, all very tasty. Then more tea.
|
|
With nothing much to do we retired early at 8.30 for a good nights sleep.
|
|
Day 7 - Friday 16 August 2002
|
|
The morning walk is a steady ascent up to the 'Second Cave (3,450 m.) with superb views of the Eastern icefields on the rim of Kibo, the youngest and so highest of the three volcanoes that form the entire mountain. After lunch, we leave the main trail and strike out across the moorland on a smaller path towards the jagged peaks of Mawenzi, the second of Kilimanjaro's volcanoes. Our campsite, which we reach in late afternoon, is in a sheltered valley near Kikelewa Caves (3,600 m.). Camp.
|
Awoke at 5.45 just as it was getting light. A cup of tea was soon in our hand. As the sun rose Kilimanjaro caught the light and was most picturesque. Ate a substantial breakfast at 7.00 and then at 7.45, just as the clouds were starting to roll up from the plain we set off up the trail.
The sun shone on our back and, the vegetation thinned out as we climbed.
With altitude, bodily functions become more and more a topic of conversation, whether male or female.
|
Kibo
sunrise 2nd day
|
|
Stopped at the 2nd cave (3340m) for lunch, a white necked raven circled overhead. Soup, salad, watermelon, cake all served at a table, this made a change from home, eating sandwiches whilst sitting on a damp rock being attacked by sheep.
|
|
From the 2nd cave we headed east toward Mawenzi, most of the time was spent contouring and we only climbed 200m during the afternoon.
|
|
We reached camp about 5.20, one of our group was unfortunate to be suffering from the first signs of altitude sickness and after 30 min of not being able to regain her breath it was decided that she should descend. Accompanied by her husband, a guide and 4 porters they retraced the track we had come up by in the dark.
|
|
The evening from then on was a little subdued as we thought of the difficult journey that they had to make. Any slight complacency that we may have had until now about the altitude was gone.
|
|
Another early night as we settle into our tent.
|
|
Day 8 - Saturday 17 August 2002
|
|
A steep climb up grassy slopes is rewarded by superb panoramas of the plains across the border in Kenya. We left the vegetation behind close to Mawenzi Tam (4,330 m.), spectacularly situated in a cirque beneath the towering cliffs of Mawenzi. The afternoon will be free to rest or to explore the surrounding area as an aid to acclimatisation. Camp.
|
|
The wind blew the tents with a constant rustle throughout the night. We were awake early and were ready for our 6am cup of tea.
|
|
We set off late, at 8.10, walking into unknown territory as we climb above any altitude we had ever been to before.
|
Mawenzi
|
Still heading towards Mawenzi we climbed steeply following the line of a ravine in which giant synousius were growing, before crossing the ravine and following the line of porters as they headed up the hill in front. Clouds started to cover the sky, the temperature dropped and the wind picked up.
Over to our right we could just make out the Kibo hut near where our next nights campsite would be. Walking slowly along a good path we soon spotted the Mawenzi Tarn campsite (4330m) and arrived in good time at 11.30.
|
|
With plenty of time to get ourselves sorted out it was a joy to be able to relax.
|
|
After lunch, in order to help with acclimatisation we took a short walk up to the ridge to the west of the site, taking us up another 150m. At the top we were able to sit in a niche in the sunshine, and look over to Kibo and the path that we would follow to the summit.
|
|
We returned to the campsite for tea, followed by a very pleasant sit in the sun until diner.
|
|
Another very early night, slept wearing thermals, fleeces and hat, very comfortable.
|
|
Day 9 - Sunday 18 August 2002
|
|
We leave our attractive campsite to cross the lunar desert of the 'Saddle' between Mawenzi and Kibo to reach Kibo campsite (4,700 m.) at the bottom of the Kibo Crater wall by early afternoon. The remainder of the day is spent resting in preparation for the final ascent before a very early night! Camp.
|
|
Arose to a beautiful sunrise with the sun hitting the rim of the crater that gradually filled with light.
|
After breakfast we set off for the crater rim, as we crossed it we had a photo opportunity of Kibo.
A gentle breeze from the west cooled us as we descended towards the shoulder between Mawenzi and Kibo. As we reached the saddle the wind picked up and so we descended slightly to the north of path out of the worst but still not too unpleasant.
|
Mawenzi
4th morning
|
|
Continued on slowly ascending the lunar type landscape towards the Kibo campsite which we could see in the distance. No animals live at this altitude with only 60% of the air that is present at sea level though elan and buffalo occasionally wander up, the only evidence we saw were droppings and footprints.
|
|
We reached the campsite (the main camp for the ascent of Kibo) and had the benefit of better toilets and even a small shop where we could buy a bottles of cola, which made a change from the water and tea of the past few days.
|
|
After lunch we settled into our tents to rest up until dinner and rest again until 23.00 when we were awoken to get ready for our climb, eating what we could with our appetite diminished by the altitude.
|
|
Day 10 - Monday 19 August 2002
|
|
We will start the final, and by far the steepest and most demanding, part of the climb by torchlight at around 1 a.m. We plod very slowly in darkness and cold on a switchback trail through loose volcanic scree to reach the Crater rim at Gillman's Point (5,685 m.). We will rest there for a short time to enjoy the spectacular sunrise over Mawenzi. Those who are still feeling strong can make the three hour round trip along the snow-covered rim to the true summit of Uhuru Peak (5,896m.), passing close to the spectacular glaciers and ice cliffs that still occupy most of the summit area. The descent to Kibo Hut (4,700 m.) is surprisingly fast and, after some refreshments and rest, we continue descending to reach our final campsite at Horombo (3,720 m.). This is an extremely long and hard day, with between 11 to 15 hours walking at high altitude. Camp.
|
|
With the temperature at -10C and certain to get colder as we climbed, wearing, long johns, trousers and water proof trousers for extra warmth, on top a base layer, thin fleece and down jacket, with a balaclava our heads and gloves on our hands.
|
|
To keep down the weight of our rucksack we carried only 1.5lt of water, biscuits, and chocolate.
|
|
At five past midnight we started off under a 3/4 moon throwing shadows and a shooting star to send us on our way. The dark outline of Kibo was ahead of us and Mawenzi behind. The glacier on the southern face of Kibo gave off a slight glow.
|
|
In crocodile line we inched forward one small step every couple of seconds. Once we reached the gully, except for an occasional breeze, there is no wind.
|
|
In the northern sky we were able to recognise some of the star formations, Cassiopeia, Pleiades and Orion but the stars of the southern sky were unrecognisable to us.
|
|
As we trudged along the chattering that had accompanied our walks of the past few days had ceased, just the guides continued to call to each other we ascended in the darkness with a few head torches picking out the way.
|
|
Occasionally a guide would give a rendition of the first few lines of What a friend we have in Jesus in Swahili.
|
|
With the crunch of boots on scree we zigzagged our way up. As we passed 5000m a few members of our group felt they could go no further and slowly returned to camp in the dark. The rest of us in various stages of altitude sickness ranging from nothing at all to sever headache and vomiting continued on up with the torches of groups ahead and behind marking the path.
|
|
By now all thoughts of note taking for this journal had gone.
|
|
At 6.00, just before sunrise, a group of us reached Gilmans Point but instead of waiting to watch the sunrise, under the urging of Andrew our guide we pressed on round to Uruhu, the highest point on Kibo. To start with the path was most enjoyable as we dropped down slightly but soon we were trudging up the slope that would take us to the top.
|
Sun rise at Uhuru
5th morning
|
With spectacular views of the glacier to our left and the crater to our right we made the summit where a following group caught up with us resulting in a total of 9 out of 17 making it all the way up, one other made it to Gilmans point. After a brief stop for photos we returned to Gilmans Point, the going being made easier because we had the exhilaration of having made it to the summit, the occasional uphill section came as a bit of a shock.
At Gilman's point we shed all our warm weather clothing as we prepared for our descent, first down the Jamaica Rocks and then down a long scree run before walking into camp 90 minutes later.
|
|
After a very brief stop to rearrange our bags and get a drink we were on our weary way again down the Marangu (Coca-Cola) route down to our camp at 3700m.
|
|
After a further 3 hours along a solid wide path, with aching feet, we finally arrived to tumble as soon as possible into our tent.
|
|
Arose briefly for dinner at 6pm but by 7.30 we were back in our sleeping bags to sleep soundly until the next morning.
|
|
Day 11 - Tuesday 20 August 2002
|
|
A sustained descent with wide views across the moorland takes us into the lovely forest around Mandara (2,700 m.), the first stopping place on the Marangu route. The trail continues through semitropical vegetation -monkeys are often seen - to the National Park gate at Marangu (1,830 m.). We return to our hotel through small farms of coffee and bananas by late afternoon for a well-earned rest and a much-needed shower! Hotel.
|
|
Much refreshed we awoke at 6am as usual and breakfasted on what is left of the supplies. This was followed by the ceremony of the tips. The evening before we had all pooled our contributions to tip the 47 porters/ guides etc who had supported us on the trek. Using some formula the kitty was apportioned between each grade of helper and presented to them with much thanks. The porters then gave a rendition of the Kilimanjaro song.
|
|
One member of our group was having trouble with co-ordination and not being able to focus his eyes. It was decided that he should be sent down the hill on the one wheeled stretcher, so with as much cushioning as possible he was strapped on and with a porter at each corner was sped on his way down the rough track.
|
The rest of us then set out to walk the final journey down to Marangu gate, crossing over a number of ravines cutting into the hillside and through the various stages of vegetation. Walking steadily we encountered other groups struggling up the hill against the altitude and also having just seen someone going down on a stretcher.
After a stopping at Mandara for a cola and our packed lunch we continued down and were much relieved to be met by the couple who had had to descend with altitude sickness a few days before.
|
Water Fall
|
|
On reaching the gate we completed more paperwork to sign out and boarded a 4x4 to take us back to our hotel. The person who had come down on the stretcher was there in the forecourt to welcome us, with video in hand. He had recovered on the way down and now felt much better.
|
|
After a wash a scrub up and a change of cloths we all felt much better and adjourned to the bar across the road from the hotel to meet up with the guides again to give then their tips and say good bye. Certificates were presented with those of us who had made it to the top and they finished with the Kilimanjaro song again and we replied with swing low sweet chariot.
|
|
After a relaxing evening meal it was off to bed ready for another early start.
|
|
|
