|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
A beautifully sunny day with little wind, just the weather for a ferry journey. We were up in good time for a leisurely breakfast before travelling to the Wellington ferry port. Said good-bye to our friends again and departed for the second phase of our New Zealand odyssey, three months in the South Island.
|
|
The ferry left on time at 9.30am and made its way sedately across the Cook Straits over a gently swell. Entered the Marlborough Sound and with hills to either side cruised through jade coloured sea to reach Picton at 12.30. Transferred to the train and at 1.30 left to slowly rock and roll along the track to Christchurch.
|
Marlborough Sound
|
As we rattled along the conductor pointed out one of South Islands smaller off shore islands - North Island. The condition of the countryside we passed through seemed much drier. The lush green grass we had seen in the north was now parched, there were less trees and no bush. But the area was popular for wine growing with extensive vine yards. At Lake Grass (fire), just to prove how warm and dry the area is, an extensive sea salt production area had been set up with large water filled lagoons. On through sheep country and into the more rugged Kaikoura Range with the track running next to the coast. On rocky sections fur seals swam and basked in the sun. Road side snack caravans offered lobster and crayfish.
|
|
After Kaikoura we picked up speed from what was probably a leisurely 50km/hr to something approaching twice that. At last we left the coast and headed inland up the Conway River before turning to run parallel with the coast through flat grasslands with sheep gazing; over broad rivers with waters muddied by recent rain; and along river valleys until for the last 50km we travelled over the broad flat Plain of Canterbury, until we reached Christchurch, 40 minutes late because of a speed limit on the first part of the track.
|
|
Together with a couple of Dutch girls we had met in Paihia and a German girl we took a taxi to our hostel in central Christchurch which has the appearance of a pleasant, gentle city.
|
|
After visiting the airport to collect our son Steve we spent the afternoon first on a tram tour of the centre of the city of Christchurch and then a visit to the old Christchurch College at which Ernest Rutherford was educated and in which was an interesting exhibition of his life and works.
|
|
For the morning we returned to the city centre to follow the walking tour around the city but only got as far as the museum which took up an hour before returning to the cathedral square in time to watch the local wizard put in a midday appearance - he didn't, so we browsed around the square and cathedral instead.
|
|
After lunch we picked up a hired car that we would be using for the next week and then drove out over hilly roads to Akaroa where we would be picked up for the Banks Peninsula track. As we were early we had a walk about the town but there was not much to see. Parked the car and walked to our pickup spot where we were briefed on the walk and then bussed our to our hut for the night.
|
|
After a couple of circuits of Christchurch's one way system we found our way out to the Arthur's Pass road. Drove west across the flat Canterbury plains with numerous vineyards and farms both arable and dairy. Slowly the mountains of New Zealand's Alps, the highest tipped with snow, rose up majestically before us against a backdrop of a light blue sky. Slipped halos of early morning cloud gradually burnt away. Followed the Kowai River into the foothills covered with grass and yellow broom but few sheep. And into the accurately named Kowai / Torlese Tussockland Park. Past Lake Coleridge and into a low alpine valley, thin layers of cloud still hung in the still air.
|
|
Continued to climb through the foothills stopping for a photo at Tawhiti Conservation Reserve. Patches of lupines of various colours brightened up the road side. And over a pass, forests lined the hillside to our left. Descended down to Lake Pearson and into a plain of farmland set high in the mountains. Followed the broad stony flood plain of the Waimakariri River deeper into the snow fringed Waimakariri mountains
|
|
Finally reached Arthur's Pass Village and checked with DOC on the best walks. We opted to do the Cass Lagoon Saddle Walk. Before driving out to the start we popped into a coffee shop to prepare ourselves with a drink and a cake.
|
|
Booked a scenic plane ride for 1pm from Lake Tekapo and so we made sure we were away in good time for what could be a four hour drive. Loaded the boot with all our baggage plus a few items on the back seat and set off at 8.30 heading south on the SH1.
|
|
The helicopter company had said that the views were good but in Canterbury the sky was cloudy, perhaps it would lift when we reached the mountains.
|
|
On long stretches of straight road through flat sheep country the monotony was broken by occasional bends, high wind break hedges, stands of trees, and small towns catering for the local farming community, a view that we shared with train passengers on the parallel railway line.
|
|
Turned up the SH79 to Geraldine. the hills could be seen in the distance with the hint of sun on them.
|
|
Stopped at the Farm Barn Cafe, just before Fairlie, for a drink and ended up on a bit of a buying spree for Christmas and birthday presents. Got out quick before spending more.
|
|
The blue of Lake Tekapo appeared before us and then the village, where we stopped for a photo, before continuing on to the airport.
|
|
As soon as we arrived we were ushered through to our plane along with four Japanese. A quick safety briefing and an allocation of seats by size and weight and we were off. First we flew up Lake Tekapo and along the Godley River. In the sun the river delta was a mass of channels forming intricate patterns. On over the Murchison and Tasman Glaciers, and Mounts Tasman and Cook, the brilliance of the snow and cloud as well as the views dazzled the eyes. Unfortunately the western and northern sides of the mountains were covered in cloud so we missed the Franz Josef Glacier. South down the Tasman Glacier to the Tasman River and Lake Pukaki. The Japanese were on a trip that involved them being dropped off for their coach at Glentanner Park so we put down there before we returned to Tekapo over ancient glacial deposits with numerous small tarns.
|
|
The flight and views were excellent and well worth the NZ$240 each.
|
|
Left Tekapo and continued our journey to Mount Cook crossing a flat tussock landscape before reaching Lake Pukaki. High jet stream clouds decorated the sky over the mountains and lupines decorated the road side. Rounded the southern end of the lake and headed up to Mount Cook Village, the mountains gradually enfolding us as we went. But soon we were there and booking in to the hostel.
|
|
As it was after 4pm we didn't have time for much of a walk and so we opted for a walk up to Red Tarn, reckoned to take two hours there and back.
|
|
With clouds overhead and spots in the wind either of rain or droplets off the mountain, we set off climbing steadily up a series of steps which turn in to one long flight which apart from two short level sections of about 20m took us all the way to the tarn an elevation gain of 380m. On a good day there are magnificent views of Mount Cook, we are told, but we could only see as far as Mount Wakefield. Under the cloudy sky Red Tarn didn't look very impressive either. Descended the path the way we had ascended in a total time including stops of 65 minutes.
|
|
|
