|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
At 7.40, along with 10 others who were walking the Hump Ridge Track, we were picked up by bus and driven out to the start of the walk at Rarakau. The ride took us over a marine terraces that had been developed as farm land, above it were 9 more terraces with the Hump Ridge in the far distance. Continued along the edge of the beach of Blue Cliff Bay.
|
|
Once dropped off we started our tramp at 8.10. With the sun still low n the sky the temperature was quite cool. Made good progress along the cliff top though native forest before dropping down on steps to the coast and more open views. By 8.50 we crossed the swing bridge over the Waikoau River and passed a group of fisherman's huts. The sun was starting to rise above the clouds sitting atop the mountains and the weather became warmer. We shed our fleeces at last.
|
|
With the option to follow the beach rather than the track, we took the beach until we reached Hump Burn aka 'The Stony' were we then had to flow the higher path. Another swing bridge took us over the Waikokok Stream and on through woodland to Flat Creek and soon after, the right turn to take us inland and up to the ridge. Stopped for a sandwich to regain our strength before starting the climb.
|
|
In a soft but uneven path we started to gradually ascend through beech wood before we arrived at an extensive board walk which took us on for 30 minutes before the climb started to steepen
|
|
Reached the final bridge where we stopped for our lunch and to replenish our water bottles with water taken by lowering a billy can into the stream below. After 30 minutes we were on our way again to cover the most difficult section of the day, a steep 600m climb over rough ground to Stag Point which would take us over the marine terraces that formed this part of the valley.
|
Marine terraces
Waitutu's marine terraces are recognised by geologists world-wide and contributed to the area's World Heritage status.
A flight of 10 steps climbs to 400 metres above sea level. Each step has been carved out of mudstone and represents an old beach level. The staircase was produced by the combined effects of coastal erosion, fluctuating sea levels and the steady uplift of the south coast over the last million years. The terraces are now mainly forested and not always easy to identify.
|
|
As we reached the top the trees became more stunted giving better views, up to our right we could see the Okaka Hut.
|
Tarns
on Hump Ridge
|
At 2.00, after 1hr 45 min climbing, we reached Stag Point with views over the sea of Stewart Island. Stopped for a while for a snack before moving off on the final leg reaching the track junction at 2.30 and the hut at 2.50. After settling in and relaxing we took a walk on a board walk loop up to The Hump with its sandstone rocks, alpine flowers and tarns.
|
|
At 7.35 under a clear blue sky, in shirt and shorts we made our way out of Okaka Hut and along a ridge heading south. For much of the way, as far as Luncheon Rock, board walks interchanged with rough paths through peat and over roots. Stunted beech trees covered most of the ridge providing good views over the tops into the cloud filled valleys.
|
|
From Luncheon Rock we started to descend into the cloud, the temperature dropping as we did. After half hour we were finally off the board walks and into the mud which wasn't as bad as we were expecting and we didn't need to put on our gaiters. By 11.20 we reached the South Coast Track at the Edwin Burn Viaduct and 25 minutes after that the Percy Burn Viaduct, where we stopped for lunch.
|
Hump Ridge
|
Percy Burn
Built in 1923 by the Chester Construction Company
Span 125m, Height 36m
Percy Burn is the world's largest wooden viaduct known to be still standing. Together with three smaller viaducts, it forms part of a 17 kilometre tramway which once linked remote logging sites with the timber mill at Port Craig.
A 90 tonne steam winch dragged logs from the bush to tram-loading points, where they were picked up by a fleet of three, geared steam locomotives.
The Percy Burn viaduct is a fitting memorial to those resourceful days. It represents the bridge-builder's craft at its finest and is recognised today as one of New Zealand's great engineering achievements.
|
|
At 12.20 we left the Percy Burn and continued on our way along the old tram way. The rails had been removed but the sleepers were still there, as were the metal pins that held the rail in place, creating a bit of a trip hazard. The tramway had not been maintained and in parts was quite deep in mud, but it was possible to pick a way through. By 2.00, after a tedious period of plodding along the track we reached Port Craig.
|
Viaducts in the sky
The year was 1916... away in an extremely isolated corner of New Zealand's South Island, bordering Fiordland and beyond the reach of road and rail, the Marlborough Timber Company was preparing to log one of the country's last significant coastal forests. Its plans were on a grand scale to build the Dominion's largest sawmill, with township, tramway and port facilities to match.
Like other New Zealand bush towns, Port Craig comprised the usual colourful mix of hardy kiwi bushmen and their families, and recent immigrants trying to eke out a place in their adopted country, plus a few others whose main aim was to keep clear of the law!
In other respects Port Craig was far from typical. Not only was the port home to the country's largest and most technologically advanced sawmill, but on its extensive bush tramway ran one of New Zealand's largest tramway locomotives over New Zealand's tallest tramway bridge... The Port Craig venture collapsed with the Depression and become one of New Zealand's ghost towns.from - Viaduct against the sky
|
Took a stroll down to the beach and wharf. It's amazing that a town was ever built on so steep a hill side and the bush had reclaimed it again.
|
|
With the bus not picking us up until 4.00pm, a walk that would only take us about 6 hours, and a need to cross Te Whata Beach on a receding tide (low tide 11.50), we did not rush to get away.
|
|
At 8.15 we set off on a good track until we came to the beach turn off 30 minutes later. Descended to the beach and made our way along it. We were still a little early and so took our time, stopping to look out to sea for Hector Dolphins which we were fortunate enough to see. At around 1.2m long they are the smallest species of dolphin in the world and therefore also the smallest marine mammal. They don't tend to travel far from home and keep close inshore, but being so small they can be difficult to spot.
|
|
Didn't spend too much time standing around as we soon attracted the sand flies. Continued on our way over sand with mussel shells, and rocks with ancient shells embedded in them. Hopped from bolder to bolder and rock outcrop with rock pools to rock outcrop, and onto pebbles of many colours and designs. By the shore oyster catchers and a skua were feeding.
|
|
After a number of scrambles we reached the headland at 10.30, we had thought that this would be the most difficult part but it proved to be an easier section. This brought us onto Blowhole Beach with a few animal tracks which we took to be deer, pigs and possum. And so on up to the main track again and before we knew it we were at the junction we had turned off at on our first day.
|
|
With the time still only 11.05, with only a little over 2 hours or walking left and 5 hour in which to do it, we sat around looking out to sea through a gap in the bush looking for more dolphins. At 11.40 with the sun just starting to break through we continued on our way for another half hour to Track Burn where we sat outside the Track Burn hut to eat our lunch. Off again at 1.00 to stroll along the Bluecliffs beach before climbing 70m of steps to get up onto a forest path. At the top of the steps was a shaded seat, that we took the opportunity to use to while away more time in the absence of the sad flies. These were becoming more of a topic of conversation than the weather.
|
|
On the first day we had noticed that some of the trees beside a section of path had plaques giving their names and details and so we set off slowly at 2.20 reading and noting the signs as we went along to arrive at the pick up point at 3.10.
|
|
Sat around watching, through binoculars, the birds fly about in the trees in front of us. One group proved particularly difficult to identify, the best we could do was guess that they were tui. Stop on time the bus arrived and soon we were back in Tuatapere.
|
|
|
