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Met up with the taxi driver and arranged our transport to the start and finish of the track then at 8.45 set off to Onepoto over the gravel road arriving there after about 20 minutes. Got ourselves organised and at 9.10 we were off up the Lake Waikaremoana Track, first climbing on a path and then joined a grassy track but after 10 minutes we came to a junction where we took a steep damp path in the shade of the bush, following the edge of the Panekiri Bluff along the southern edge of the lake, with the lake to our right.
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At 9.55 we reached our first view point and the way became less steep. With the easier going and less exertion the sweat that climbing had built up started to chill us.
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The path was typical tall bush mostly beech, with honeysuckle and other unidentified species. On the ground the only flowers were white native violets.
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At 10.50 we reached the ridge and the path now became boggy in places but the leaf mould helped to make it reasonable to walk over. It would seem that no maintenance had been carried out on the path since it was constructed in the 1960s.
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Lake Waikaremoan a from Panekiri Ridge
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At 11.00 we stopped at a view point for 15 minutes. A female tomtit came and paid us a visit sitting on the rucksack. With the sun now intermittent we quickly cooled off and so continued on our way. We now followed the ridge along dropping down and climbing again but never walking on the level. At last we came to a flight of steps up a knoll which after rounding brought us to Paneriki Hut, perched on top of a knoll next to a trig point, arriving at 12.55.
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When we got there there was only one other person there but over the course of the afternoon the hut gradually filled until by evening there were about twenty of us. With the recent change of the clocks the evening started to get dark early and by 7.30 we were sitting in candle-light and by 8.30 most people were in bed.
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Contary to forecast, during the night it started to rain and was still raining when we woke up at 6.20. By 8.45, when we left, the rain was still falling lightly and so we had dressed in our full wet weather gear. As we would be mainly on the level or descending we would not have the problem of getting wetter inside than out.
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Soon after we had started the rain eased to a drizzle mixed with larger drips from off the trees. After about an hour we had come to the end of the ridge and started down towards the lake. We had been told that the path was steep and slippy, but it wasn't too bad at all. As we neared the bottom the drizzle had almost stopped and the sun was trying to break through.
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At 10.25 we reached Waiopaoa Hut and stopped for 20 minutes for a break. Off again crossing over a couple of bridges and through a meadow on a river delta. The good path, made a bit waterlogged by the rains ran along the lake shore with a good view of the lake through the manuka bush. Clouds still hung low on the hill sides with wisps descending into the trees.
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Passed the Korokoro camp site and started to climb to a higher elevation. The path now wasn't as good, passing over beech roots and continually rising and falling as it made its way around the shore. At 1.05 we returned to the lake side and reached Ormands Lodge, a private residence. Near by was a building with a table and bench outside and so at 1.20 we stopped for 20 minutes for lunch.
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After continuing on and rounding the headland a few minutes later we saw a hut across the lake with just an inlet between us, but we had to walk quite a way inland before we could cross to the other side and return to the hut only to find that although it looked like a DOC hut it wasn't one. We still had another 30 minutes to go and to make matters worse it was a climb up and over a saddle. At last at 2.10 we reached Maraunui Hut with views over the bay, and settled ourselves in. Hung out our damp gear to dry in the sunshine.
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Maraunui Inlet and hut
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After another early night and so we were up at 6.10 and off at 7.40, crossing a bridge and rounding the edge of the lake. A pair of black swans with a late clutch of chicks swam along. The path swung inland and we climb steadily to cut across a small promontory before dropping back to the shore. Although the surface of the lake appeared still it lapped gently against the shore.
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At 9.20 we arrived at Waiharuru Hut a brand new hut sleeping 40, it looked as if it had been designed by someone who really knew about tramping and the finish was first class.
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Set off again at 9.45 walking along the lake side again for 30 minutes before turning inland to cross the neck of another peninsular. The track time gave 90 minutes for this section, which included the previous shore side section, at a distance of 2.1km so we were expecting a stiff climb but after 10 minutes we were at the top, a further 10 minutes were spend on a reasonably level saddle, and 10 more minutes down the other side - less than an hour in total. This brought us to the Tapuaenui Campsite and the Whanganui Inlet with further lake side paths. In this secluded section wilds flowers were far more abundant, being almost non-existent of the rest of the trail, buttercups, daisies, dandelions and white violets, flowers we associate more with spring than autumn.
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Lake Waikaremoan a from Hopuruahine Landing
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At 11.30 we reached the Whanganui Hut, we were 45 minutes from our pick up point with 3 hours to do it in so we took our boots off and made ourselves at home relaxing on the veranda and later having lunch. At 1.15 we moved on to quickly complete the walk in 35 minutes. Took the opportunity to wash the mud from our boots and gaiters in the lake while we waited for the boat which arrived exactly on time. Boarding was achieved by standing on a slightly submerged rock and hopping over the side.
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Enjoyed a ride back to the Waikaremoana Motor Camp with fine views of the lake and surrounding hills particularly the Panekiri Range which had been shrouded in mist the previous day. Booked back in to the motor camp and received the same cabin again. All that remained was to have a shower, eat, and sort our bags out again.
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Panekiri Ridge
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