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Awoke before dawn so that we would be ready to set off at first light, but we weren't the first away, some others in the lodge were up an hour before us.
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Clouds obscured the stars but as it became lighter we saw that the cloud was high and we had views all around, including the summit of Taranaki.
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Set off at 7.05 with our day packs. In the north the sky glowed red above the Waitara plains. For the first part of the walk we followed a steep track through bush which provided vehicular access to a TV transmitter perched up on the mountainside. As we went the sky lightened and the sun arose over the top of Mount Ruapehu 140km away. As we climbed higher the bay to the north west became more visible and also the circular boundary between the National Park and the rest of the countryside was sharply defined. The last section of the track became even steeper and to enable vehicles to get up it concrete had been laid with stones inserted, it was known as The Puffer Track, with good reason.
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At 8.00 we reached the transmitter and 5 minutes later Tahurangi Lodge, just above it we stopped for a break and to admire the view which stretched from the twin peaks and chimney of New Plymouth in the north to the huge dairy at Hawera in the south and out to the Tongariro National Park on the far horizon.
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After 20 minutes we were off again, in spite of the steepness of the mountain the route took an almost direct path. From the transmitter the horizontal distance to the summit is only 2km and the vertical distance 1000m. We climbed on rough paths and steps up the side of Hongis Valley and crossed the dry river bed to climb a long series of steps up to the North Ridge. Although at the time we complained inwardly about the steps, the alternative we were to discover was far worse. By the time we reached the top of the steps 20 minutes later the sun had risen above the horizon clouds and it was time to shed our fleeces. The field system and woods of the Waigtara Plains were laid out in light green, contrasting with the dark green of the Egmont National Park bush which for most of its boundary formed a perfect circle with Taranaki at its centre. The gorges of streams cut deep into the surrounding hills. To the north west the park extended to take in the Pouakai Range and even further in the same direction a detached section of the park contained the Kaitake Range, both dwarfed by Taranaki.
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Ruapehua
From summit of Taranaki
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The path now moved on to loose pumice making the going very hard. The slope was just about as steep as it could be without the pumice cascading to the bottom. With relief, at 9.45, we reached a rocky ridge known as Lizard and thought the going would now be easier but we were wrong. Although our footing was now mostly firm, we had to scramble up the lava rocks on a route that was not well marked, but in the main headed straight up. Behind us, in a direct line with North Egmont Village was a gagged rock sticking up above its surroundings, called Humphries Castle. In a few of the crevices hebe, grasses and moss clung on to a precarious existence. After a 500m scramble we rounded the sides of the minor peak of the Sharks Tooth and crossed the snow covered crater for a last scramble up fragile pumice rock to reach the top at 11.05.
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Sat around and ate our sandwiches and were surprised to see a family of mice, they must just survive on what climbers leave for them. After admiring the views we started off back down at 11.40 taking even more care on the descent than we did going up. The steep angle put a great deal of pressure on our knees and thighs as well as causing us to slip and end up on our backsides a couple of times. The loose pumice was the easiest to descend as we were able to stick our heals in and use a skiing action. By 2.00 we were back at the transmitter and 50 minutes later we were down at the lodge.
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