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With the climb of Kilimanjaro in August it was thought that it would be a good idea to get in some high level walking. Lauterbrunnen was an area that Mick and Sue had visited before and so this was the area chosen.
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With a party of 13, some walkers and some family members, we set out for Switzerland.
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An early start; left Northampton, for Luton Airport at 4.15 to catch the 6.30 Easyjet flight to Geneva, which left 20 minutes late.
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A reasonably uneventful 1hr15min flight and we had completed our first leg; advanced watches by 1 hour to Swiss time.
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Now for the train leg which would be in 5 stages, Geneva Montreux - Zwiesimmen - Spiez - Interlaken - Lauterbrunnen. We had an hours wait for the first train, giving us the chance to get a drink, but from then on each change was only 5 to 10 minutes.
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The Montreux train took us along the northern shore of Lake Geneva with occasional glimpse of it, but better views were to be had on the Zwiesimmen train a GoldenPass mountain express.
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Winding track
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First we zigzagged up the mountainside with views over the lake, before turning up the valley. We continued up through rolling alpine meadows with a profusion of wild flowers; fir trees lined the track so that taking a photo through the gaps, on the move was almost impossible. Traditional villages were passed through from time to time with, neat farmsteads dotted about, with thin wire fences marking the edges of the fields rather than hedges nothing hindered the view of vivid green grass and splashes of trees. Although rock outcrops pierced the grass there were no boulders to be seen, giving a very tidy appearance
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Towering mountains, with gullies picked out with snow, lined the valley, occasional tunnels cutting though. Eagles and other birds of prey circled around.
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On the steeper meadow slopes hay was being cut with a swing of the scythe - in the traditional way.
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To the west of Interlaken paragliders were swarming around like butterflies above Lake Thun.
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The final leg to Lauterbrunnen took us up the valley through woods, between road and river.
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As we felt we hadn't done enough travelling on trains after settling in at our hotel 'The Oberland', we took a trip up to M|rren via funicular train to Grutschalp.
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By this time we were feeling a little hungry and so were please when 8.00 and our evening meal at the hotel came around.
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Set off at 9.20, first to walk up to Wengen, a climb of 500m, and from there to catch a train to Jungfraujoch. Again wonderful views in all directions, villages hung to the mountainsides in seemingly impossible positions. Although the sun was shining brightly we unfortunately were in he shadows for most of the climb.
Reached Wengen, a beautiful and clean village from which vehicles are banned at 10.45. It was too late for the train we had hoped to catch and a day to early for the 10.50 train, which starts running on 1 June, so we sat in the square with a drink and caught the 11.20. Whilst waiting we were entertained by the locals driving through a heard of cows.
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Wengen
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The first train we were taking was to Kleine Scheidegg a transfer point on our trip to Jungfraujoch, the highest train station in Europe. The journey gave us picture postcard view of the Eiger, Mvnch and Jungfrau. Alpine flowers lined the sides of the track.
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Whilst waiting at Kleine Scheidegg Alpine Jackdaws flew around to keep us amused..
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From Kleine Scheidegg the journey to Jungfraujoch is mostly through tunnels but with 5 min stops at Eigerwarld and Eismeer, two stations that are just train crossover points and view points. The journey seemed to be just as popular with Asian visitors as with Europeans.
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Us in front of the Jungfrau
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Reached Jungfraujoch - the 'Top of Europe' at 1.00. The area as quite a number of tourists features, which is just as well as the cost of the trip in about #40. After a drink in the restaurant we stepped outside to walk to Mvnch Hut and was blinded by the brightness of the snow, it took 10 min before our eyes became accustomed. The 1km walk to the hut took us up 160m, which at 3500m we could feel the altitude.
On our return we visited the Sphinx, an observation platform mounted high on a rock to give views in all directions and reached via a lift. Next was the ice caves, chambers carved out of the ice and into the walls of which have been various ice sculptures.
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Finished off with another walk outside and a drink before catching the last train at 5.10 to return to Wengen. From where we descended on foot at a fast pace to get back to Lauterbrunnen for 7.10
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The 1hr 45min we spent outside on the snow really gave us a suntan. It wasn't the direct sun that did the damage but the reflected light off the snow. Our hats gave no protection and we ended up with rosy faces.
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Set off at 9.30 on a level road up the valley towards Trummelbachfalle in the cool in shadow of the eastern hills, crossing the river made milky green by glacial floor.
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Stopped at 10.10 at the Trummelbach cafe for 20 min before taking a short path which brought us close to the falls and the start of the climb beginning with a 50m ascent up the near shear rock face facilitated by cut steps and steel cable for a hand rail.
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With the slope now diminishing enough for pine trees to get a foothold, the path levelled out, slightly. The drop into the valley was now obscured by trees, at one moment we were climbing over roots and next after a turn found ourselves walking past their upper branches.
As we climbed higher the path became easier before dropping into a gorge with the Trummelbach river rushing through it. Then up and out again into the sun as the pine trees become slightly less dense and wild flowers colonise the sunny spots; large butterflies flitted about.
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Lauterbrunnen valley
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At 12.15 we stopped for lunch in the shade of a tree in a meadow of flowers, many yellow, some blue, and others of pink, violet, white, purple, mauve. As we continued on gaining height the ranges of flowers changed.
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In time we reached a crossroads and continued on a firm level track. Across the valley the crack and rumble of an avalanche on the opposite side of the mountains could be heard.
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Leaving the track on a path to the left we emerged above the tree line with Wengerenalp station before us. We zigzagged up to reach the track running beside the railway. With the Eiger, Mvnch and Jungfrau to our right we made our way up to Kleine Scheidegg for a second lunch.
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At 3.45 we started down again, this time following the track all the way back to Lauterbrunnen, stopping at Wengen on the way for refreshments.
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Mick & Sue at Trummelbachf alle
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Left Lauterbrunnen with only one cloud in the sky, and that was covering the sun. Again strolled up to Trummelbachfalle but this time we stopped and visited the falls, a series of 10 waterfalls tumbling through a rock crevice. Tunnels and steps have been constructed to give access to the crevice to get a better view. With the spray and the breeze caused by the rushing water it felt colder than when we had been in the ice caves.
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10 glacial-waterfalls inside the mountain made accessible by tunnel-lift and illuminated. The Trummelbach alone drains the mighty glacier defiles of Eiger (3970m) Monk (4099m) and Jungfrau (4105m) and carries 20,200 tons of boulder detritus per year. Its drainage area is 24km2, half of it covered by snow and glaciers. Up to 20,000 litres of water per second. The only glacier waterfalls in Europe inside the mountain and still accessible
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Returned to the cafe for a snack before starting out at 12.10 up the valley for Stechelberg following a well-made path by the river. From there at 1.05 we started to climb through the wood up the left-hand side of a stream and waterfall arriving at the top at 2.15. We then walked south-west along the right hand side of the river on a track, finding a quiet place for lunch besides the stream at 2.30.
Fully refreshed, we continued on our way after 20min, following well made tracks. A cuckoo called out as we went along. At 3.45 we reached Gimmelwald and found a bar for a drink. While we sat there an eagle circled about with a sparrow hark trying to drive it off.
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Jungfrau
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Continued on at 4.15, along a road, climbing towards M|rren, reaching there at 5.05. During the afternoon we started to photograph the wild flowers, within a couple of hours we had over 80 photos, which as far as we can tell at the moment, are mostly of different types
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Left M|rren at 5.30 to return to Lauterbrunnen first walking beside the railway track and then dropping steeply down through the woods. The closely packed fir trees grew tall and straight reaching for the sun. Arrived back in Lauterbrunnen at 6.45.
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The bright sunshine of the last few days had come to an end and been replaced by cloud with a forecast of rain later.
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Caught the 9.47 funicular up to Grutschalp and the train to M|rren to start our walk to Birg at 10.15 climbing through the village and up to a small hill Sonnenberg (1835m). In spite of all the wild flower pictures taken the previous day we still found 10 more, a couple of which seemed to be large versions previous types.
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The road continued steeply following the line of a ski run. Hazel bushes with catkins grew on the slopes and pockets of snow lay in shady spots.
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Just below the snow line we stopped for lunch at 12.30, a couple of English walkers on the way down informed us that although the path to Birg was snow covered it was passable.
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We followed the general line of the chair-lift through increasingly larger patches of snow up to Shilthornhutte (2432m) reaching there at 2.00. On the way we met a group of about 20-30 American teenagers with 3 leaders, many of whom were dressed in little more than T-shirts, shorts and trainers!
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Approaching Birg
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At last we were in a valley below Birg and the path through the snow and the summit could be seen, unfortunately the cloud descended and it started to drizzle. We slowly made our way through the snow along the sloping side of the valley, maintaining our height. Snow buntings flew about ahead of us.
After a while the cloud lifted again and we were able to see our way more clearly. Reaching the end of the valley we made our final turn and headed straight up the slope to Birg (2677m) arriving at 3.30.
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Caught the 4.10 cable-car back down to M|rren, which was made even better by the fact that the downward ride was free, and a welcome hot drink. Whilst walking through M|rren what seemed to be a marmot dashed across the road. The Americans we had seen earlier also past by, one girl seemed to be in the early stages of hypothermia.
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At the beginning of the 19th century the Eiger was considered as impossible to climb as the Matterhorn. Even Christian Almer, the most successful of the Grindelwald mountain guides, doubted that it would ever be conquered.. When Charles Barrington, an Irishman with a passion for horses arrived in Grindelwald in 1858 with the desire to try something extraordinary. Christian Almer let himself be persuaded to make an attempt. They were successful, the Irishman had his thrilling adventure and nothing further was heard of him in the world of alpinism.
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The final day but still plenty to do. Caught the 9.05 to Interlaken and then the 9.30 to Brienz, which took us east along the north shore of Lake Brienz, emerald green under the sunlight with a light mist over it. The mountains reflected in the water and a pleasure steamer sailed across it.
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In fields were the usual cows with bells but also one heard of llama.
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Arrived in Brienz in time to put our luggage into lockers on the station and catch the 9.55 train to Rothorn, but as it was already crowded we decided to wait for the 10.25 in order to get good seats
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The Brienz to Rothorn train is a stream train that puffs its way up from Brienz at 566m to Rothorn, a summit at 2244m. At times the incline is as much as 1 in 4 and to cope with it the engine is mounted so that its boiler is horizontal even though the track is anything but. From the open sided carriages we were able to get excellent views over Brienz Lake to the Alps beyond as well as the countryside we were passing through. Here and there along the track tree trunks had been carved or painted to add interest and at one point we were able to look down at an eagle as it flew by.
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After an hour we were at the top, just enough time to look around, take some photos and buy a couple of souvenirs, then it was back down on the packed 11.25 sharing a compartment with the brakemen. On the upward journey the train had been at the back pushing us with the smoke streaming behind, going down the train was in front with the smoke passing over us, especially in the tunnels. As we passed through the trees the smoke hung in the branches highlighting the sun beams as they passed through.
On the way up we had passed a workman sitting on a rock, he was still there when we returned the only difference being that he had taken his jacket off!
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Lake Brienz
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Arrived back with 40min to spare before our next leg and so sat by the lake eating an ice cream watching mallards and a pair of coots constructing a nest, the scene being slightly spoiled by oil pollution around the edge.
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Left on the 1.50 for Lucerne travelling along the valley. Outside the cities the railway far more integrated with its surroundings than in the UK. There are few fences to separate it from the rest of the world and tends to be on the same level as the roads, platforms are almost non-existent with people crossing from one side of an open station over the rails. A result is that crossings are quite numerous and that tickets are checked on the trains by ticket collectors rather than at a barrier.
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Scattered villages with traditional Swiss chalets and farms high up in the mountains passed by as we looked out of the train window, we were now becoming accustomed to the views.
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At 3.30 we arrived in Lucerne. With the train to Zurich not being until 6.10 we wandered about the old town with it's covered bridges over the broad fast flowing river and buildings with murals on the outside.
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Our Zurich train was a double deck inter city which allowed us to get good views over the countryside as we passed out of the mountains and into the relatively flatter lowlands. Arrived in plenty of time for our 9.10 return flight to Luton, remembering to put our watches back 1 hour during the flight.
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With excellent weather in which to enjoy the superlative views this really had been a picture postcard experience.
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The network of walks was extensive, on level gradients these were on firm paths and wouldn't be appreciated by the purists, but on higher steeper climbs these became rougher but still not much grass under foot.
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Although Switzerland is not completely devoid of graffiti, litter and pollution they are scarce enough to be notice when they do occur. But the efficiency and cleanliness seems to make the country like a matron without a hair out of place whose only concern is with keeping up appearances rather than enjoying life.
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This weekend has opened up another area which we feel we must return to to explore more.
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