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Some time ago we had decided that this would be the month we would walk the West Highland Way, as we had been told that the weather was reasonable at this time, the flowers were out, but the midges weren't. But when we came to book our accommodation we were surprised how many other people had the same idea and Kingshouse was already fully booked. However with the help of Easyways and a little flexibility we were able to work out an itinerary.
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Travelling week we had been able to get a specially reduced bus fares with National Express at £20 each return to Glasgow.
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Left home at 10.30 and got the first feel of carrying our fully laden rucksack of 26lb, as we walked to the bus station to catch the 11.35 bus to Birmingham.
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The bus arrived on time in Birmingham, which being a hub of the National Express network had buses arriving from all over the country. To make sure that everything connected incoming buses arrived between 1.00 and 1.30 whilst most outgoing buses left at 2.00.
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Caught our 2.00 bus to Glasgow but we were soon being delayed by congestion around the M5 junction and then road works further up the M6. By the time we reached Glasgow we were 20min late.
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Made our way through the middle of Glasgow, which was much improved since we had last seen it, to Central Station and a short ride out to Max and Irene
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Milngavie to Drymen - 12.5 miles
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With only 12 miles to walk we took our time to get out to Milngavie, taking a return train to Central Station and then transferring to another line to reach Milngavie.
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Start
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From the railway station the route to the centre of Milngavie and the start of the West Highland Way is well signed.
After picking up food for our lunch and having our photo taken at the start obelisk, we were ready to start at 11.00 under a cloudy sky.
Following the again well marked path of the West Highland Way we made our way out of town along tarmac and compacted granite chipped paths through Drumclog Moor, following a stream over to our right. On leaving the moor and entering Mugdock Wood two curved stone plaques were imbedded in the path bearing the inscription
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Drumclog Moor, new leaves unfurling
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Mugdock Wood, many year's turning
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Further along the path was a circular plaque with the single word 'Breathe'. This and the two previous inscriptions are part of a millennium project.
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The path emerged from the wood and we passed over a minor road to follow a forest trail taking us by the side of Craigallian Loch with a couple of fishermen and a few water birds. We were now able to get our first sight of the hills in the distance. The sun was making a half-hearted attempt to shine and failing.
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Slowly ascending the straight track we reached wooden weekend and fishermens retreats before arriving at the B821 and turning left down it for 300m.
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After a short while we were able to turn right off the road and make our way up the path to a wall at the end, with no apparent path continuation from it. It wasn't until we were almost at the wall that we were able to see that there were steps going over it and a path continuing the other side.
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Dropping down into Strath Blane, Dumgoyach, a rounded wooded hill appeared before us and over to our left was the hills of Dumbarton Muir. In front of us flew a Curlew with its striking song and came to rest on a knoll to our right.
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After passing round Dumgoyach and over a bridge we turned left onto the track of the old Glasgow to Aberfoyle railway, which we would follow for the next 4 miles. On both sides, as well as across the track, were eventing jumps. The pipe carrying water from Loch Lomond ran along side.
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At the 7 mile point Glengoyne Distillery lay off to the right. As it was lunchtime and we were well on schedule we decided to drop in. We were surprised to see that Lang Brothers Ltd owned it. In their shop we were able to buy some appropriate birthday presents.
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LANGS SUPREME
Finest Blended Whisky
Scotland's supreme blended Scotch whisky with Glengoyne unpeated malt whisky at it's heart.
Once blended the whisky is returned to oak casks for a unique 'marrying' period to ensure a smoother, more rounded blend.
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Lang brothers
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The distillery was also the birth place of Tedder of Glenguin
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Tedder of Glenguin
Arthur William Tedder was born in the Customs House here on 11th July, 1890 while his father was Excise Officer. He later rose to the rank of Marshall of the Airforce and was one of the country's finest leaders.Arther John Tedder, his father, was knighted in 1909 when, as chief inspector he rendered inestimable assistance to a Royal Commission of Enquiry into whisky and other potable spirits, generally called the 'What is whisky?' case, and also he contributed to work in establishing the Old Age Pension Scheme.
It is recorded 'he saved the day for Scotch Whisky and in that victory, Glengoyne can be said to have had it's share'.
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After eating our sandwiches we were back on the trail, but not for long as we called in at the Beech Tree Inn for a drink. A sign nearby told us about the railway line
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Did you miss the train
YES! Until 1951 I used to travel to work in Glasgow by train. You can see this section of track was straight but the train went round lots of other small villages. It seemed to take forever to get to work. If you close your eyes and listen, all you hear is the sound of cars rushing by. That's how people get to work now.
Can you see Loch Lomond from here?
NO? Well it is only a few feet away! 18 million buckets of water a day are flowing from Loch Lomond past you to homes and industry throughout central Scotland. Like you, the pipeline follows the old railway line. You're heading for Fort William while the water is off to Edinburgh!
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Pressing on we continued along the line of the railway, crossing over the B834, until the track came to an end at a minor road and we turned left to follow it to Drymen (Drimon).
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At Gartness we crossed a bridge that was built in 1971 to replace a former stone bridge built in 1715. Will this one last over 250 years?
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The sun had finally broken through and for the first time we were able to walk in shirtsleeves. In the verge, beside the road bluebells were blooming.
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Just before Drymen, as the road bent left, the Way cut across open ground, the first grass that we had walked on all day, but it didn't last long as we soon reached the B858 and turned left down it into Drymen.
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On the way in we came upon a sign that informed us that there was a path diversion,
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For safety reasons sections of the West Highland Way through Garadbhan Woods closed until further notice. The large machinery used for the timber extraction can be dangerous and fallen trees block the path so please follow the waymarked diversion.
Walk into the centre of Drymen. At the village square, next to Spar, turn right up the Old Gartmore Road.
Proceed along this road for 1500m (1 mile) then turn left into the wood at White's Plantation, continue along this path to re-join the Way
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This was useful as it now ran past the door of the Clackan, where we were staying.
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The Clackan is the oldest pub in Scotland, according to the sign, established and licensed in 1734.
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For our evening meal we visited the Pottery Cafe, a man in the square at Milngavie who took our photo for us had recommended it to us. Without his instructions we wouldn't have found it as it is behind a boutique and the sign is very poor, but the meal was good. While sitting there a jackdaw was strutting about on the path outside.
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Drymen to Rowardennan - 15 miles
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The day started overcast with a light drizzle as we made our way at 9.25 up the minor road heading north out of the village. By the time we had reached the bend on which the path into Whites Plantation starts we were warm and the drizzle lighter so we discarded our anoraks and put on our gaiters instead, as we anticipated the paths might be muddy.
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On a compacted granite chip path with only an occasional puddle we made our way through the wood, turning right at a T junction at the end and then left to bring us back onto the Way in Garadhban Forest.
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However, after a mile we came to another diversion. This time, because of lambing, Conic Hill was close, we were two days too early as it opens again on the 12th.
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Diverting south on a farm track we reached the B837 and a road walk into Balmaha. A cuckoo sang from the woods to our right.
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Hoping for a coffee stop, we called in at the visitor's centre at Balmaha, but were out of luck and so we pressed on. A cul de sac, as we left Balmaha, took us after a few metres to a path off to the right where steps and a steep climb took us to the top of a viewing point over the loch, then back down the other side to walk beside the shore of Loch Lomond. A few waterfowl, mallards, swans, cormorant and tufted duck went about their business.
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Loch Lomond
in the mist
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We now started to follow the B837 as it made its way up to the Rowardennan ferry. Sometimes we walked by the road and sometimes we were able to get a little way from it into the woods
As we entered Ben Lomond National Park disaster struck, all the notes that I had been making on a Psion notebook disappeared and were not recoverable. It was fortunate that this was only the second day but it meant trying to rewrite the first day and a half from memory.
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Signs informed us what was taking place in the park:-
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Blair Wood
You may be surprised to know that Blair Wood, to your left behind the deer fence, was a 'dense conifer forest' in 1996. Foresters removed the conifers and non-native broad-leaved trees to reveal remnants of the ancient oaks you see towering above you.
Once the conifer had been cleared Birch, Rowan and Alder seeds exploded into life, racing towards the new found sunlight. These trees are nature's pioneers, protected by the deer fence from grazing deer and goats, preparing the ground for the slower growing Oak, already starting to appear. Once these young trees are strong enough to fend for themselves the fence will be removed
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Old for new
Whether it's your first time here or you're a regular you cannot help noticing the changes.
The 'New Forest' of 40 year old conifers are being felled providing valuable timber for house construction, pallets, fencing and paper.
The newly cleared land will be regenerated with the 'Old Woodland' trees that once covered much of the landscape: Oak, Birch, Alder, Holly, Scots Pine and Rowan.
One of the biggest projects of it's kind in Europe it will take over 40 years to complete the restoration of the Atlantic Oakwoods to the way they were on East Loch Lomondside. These woods were once used to produce charcoal (to smelt iron), tool shafts, fencing and building materials. From oak bark they produced tannin to 'tan' leather.
So important are these Woodlands that Scottish Natural Heritage has nominated them Special Area of Conservation. The European LIFE Nature Fund has awarded the project funding to off-set the costs of some of the work, in the short term. In the long term the sale of timber from coniferous forests in the neighbouring Queen Elizabeth Forest Park, managed by Forest Enterprise, will also help finance this ambitious long term project.
As these Woodlands, owned by the Forestry Commission, go native so will the hills owned by the National Trust of Scotland. Together we are working in partnership to improve the habitat, the landscape and the enjoyment of the
Ben Lomond National Memorial Park.
Come back in the years ahead and see for yourself how things have changed.
This land rising from the shore of the Loch to the summit of Ben Lomond was dedicated in 1994 as the Ben Lomond Memorial Park to be held in perpetuity as a tribute to those who gave their lives in the service of their country.
Remnants of the Atlantic Oakwoods can be seen all along East Loch Lomond.
Iron smelting was carried out in the forests using the charcoal produced.
A crannog, man made island, was found off the shore showing how long man has been working with wood on Loch Lomondside.
Also supported by Scotish Natural Heritage and Caledonian Partnership.
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Called in at the caravan park shop at Cashall for a drink and then sat outside on the park benches to eat our lunch at leisure, as we were well on time.
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The path continued to follow the road before finally, at Sallochy veering off left to take us though a wooded tranquillity.
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Beside the loch the University of Glasgow has a Field Station where they carry out studies on the loch's ecology.
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A steep ascent, with the sun at last trying to make an appearance forced us to remove our fleeces as we wound our way through silver birches and clearings, past bluebells, primrose and wood sorrel and fir forests, up paths and down paths until at last we were back on the road near Rowardennan.
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The clouds had now lifted but still clung to the hilltops. The light morning mist dispersed. Cars could be heard driving along on the opposite shore
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After a short walk along the road we were at Rowardennan Hotel. With an hour to go before we would be able book in at the Rowardennan Youth Hostel, we stopped for a drink, to kill time, before making the days final half-mile walk to the hostel.
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Instead of being in separate dormitories, as we had expected, we were fortunate to be allocated a room of our own with bunk beds. As we were well away from any restaurants we took our meal at the hostel, a very satisfying three course offering.
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Ben Lomond - Ptarmigan - Tom Fithich - Creag a'Bhocain 16 miles
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A bright sunny day and so ideal for climbing up Ben Lomond
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Walked down to the start of the Ben Lomond route by the National Park Centre and head out by the wide right hand path behind the toilet block.
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The path climbed up between silver birch and pine trees, occasional red over blue marker posts also showed the way, which was impossible to loose.
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Emerging above the tree line we headed left over a bridge and then north into open country; the path clearly lay before us. Excellent views were to be had all around, but these were to get even better as we climbed.
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A chill north wind kept us from becoming too warm with the effort and it was a toss up whether to wear our fleeces or not.
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As we proceeded various skylarks piped us on our way. Over towards Ptarmigan a bird of pray circled above, we were told that in this area the golden eagle is the most likely bird, but we think it more likely to have been a buzzard.
At the base of the summit knoll the north wind finally won and we donned our fleeces. A RAF rescue helicopter flew overhead and up to the summit, just for practice.
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Ben Lomond top
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Loch Lomond
from Ben Lomond
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By 11.15 we were at the top. Spectacular views were to be had in all directions. We were told that on really clear days it is possible to see as far as Glasgow in the south and Ben Nevis in the north.
After 10min we started to descend, going over the northern edge of the summit and working our way down a steep path.
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The wind had become stronger so we put on another layer of clothing as we descended to a point known as Ptarmigan.
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The descent from Ptarmigan was very pleasant with the view down the loch in front of us and sheltered from wind behind. Finding a nice sunny spot we stopped for lunch at 12.30.
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We continued down the path until we reached Tom Fithich. As we had plenty of time we decided to turn north to explore the ridge running up to Creag a'Bhocain, an area that is without paths. The going was relatively easy with occasional stretches of bog that were not too much of a problem.
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In a hollow we came upon a nearly eaten carcass of a deer with limbs scattered about, something had really ravaged it. Later, at the hostel we were told that a black panther had been sighted regularly in the Trossachs (the area just to the east) and that would be the only thing likely to dismember a carcass.
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Latter as we crossed a top we saw a herd of deer disappear across the next top and later another group stood grazing long enough to get a photo.
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Occasional shy violets peaked out from the grass. Small experimental areas were fenced off here and there.
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Before reaching Creag a'Bhocain we dropped down to the tree line and then followed it north until it came to an end and we could drop down though a sparse wood furnished with oak, beech, birch and bluebells
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At last we reached the West Highland Way path that runs by the side of the loch and we were able to follow it south for the 5 miles to get back to the hostel. The cool northerly breeze in our backs was now welcome.
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Rowardennan to Beinglas - 14 miles
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Really efficient today, up and away at 8.50. Sun shining beautifully so set off in shorts, through it was a bit cool.
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For the section between Ptarmigan Lodge and Rowchoish there are two options, a high level track that we had walked the day before or a shore path that one guide says is dangerous due to erosion. Having already done the track we opted for the shore path which was a very pleasant walk through old oak woodland, with only us there, and not at all dangerous just a mild scramble in places. The sun filtered through the still sparse leaf canopy.
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As we looked over the loch we saw what looked like a egret standing on rock so quickly taking a long range photo at maximum zoom we crept closer to get an even better shot to find it was a large plastic container on the end of a stick!
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Just off the path is Rowchoish Bothy a shelter for walkers so we dropped in to have a look. As it is free and open to all, facilities are minimal but they do provide a place for the night where a fire can be lit to keep warm and dry out
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Welcome to Rowchoish Bothy which is provided by Forest Enterprise and maintained with help from the Loch Lomond Park Authority (LLPA) and the Mountain Bothies Association (MBA). Use of the bothy is at your own risk.
Some Historical Information
Surprising as it may seem, in 1750 there were nine families living in the vicinity of Rowchoish with at least three more settlements between here and Inversnaid. This bothy was the byre of Rowchoish Cottage, which was occupied until the late thirties (see illustration).
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In 1965 'Public Spirited Bodies' led by the Scottish Rights of Way Society renovated the byre with the consent of the Forestry Commission and dedicated it to William Ferris who was a prominent official of several outdoor organisations. The maintenance was originally the responsibility of the Moray Outward Bound Club but in 1977 this passed to the MBA. In 1961 much work was done by Endeavour Training (Scotland) Ltd and more recently the LLPA re-roofed the structure
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After 2 1/2 hours we had walked 5 mile and reached the spot where we had joined the WHW the day before. The time taken the previous evening to travel the same distance along the track had been only 1 1/2 hours.
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Across the loch we heard the sound of a small aircraft and looked over to see a plane take off from the loch surface.
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At one point we thought we heard a strange bird call but it turned out to be the nasal sound of the base tone of a tour boats tanoy " ... and the idiots you see on the right are walking the West Highland Way ..."
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Welcome to Craigrostan Woods
Enjoy a walk through some of Loch Lomond's ancient woodland. Craigrostan Woods include a large remnant of the native oak woodland, which once cloaked these hillsides. The Woods have survived here because for centuries oaks were valued for their bark as well as for timber, which could be used for leather tanning.
The Woods were also protected from past tree felling activity by the steep and rocky terrain.
Now the woods are valued and managed as a rare and internationally important habitat. They are home to a rich variety of wildlife including pine marten, pied flycatcher and colonies of wood ants.
Woodland Revival
Discover some of the ways in which the Comer Estate is helping to restore the wooded landscape. As you are walking you will see some of the work that is being carried out to protect and encourage natural regeneration of this special woodland.
Limited access
Fencing helps restrict access to the wood by deer and feral goats which graze young trees. You can help this work by closing all the gates after you. You may also notice tree tubes in the woods which protect young trees and seedlings, giving them an even better chance of survival in their most vulnerable years
Expansion
One aim is to encourage the spread of native woodland. The more recent conifer plantation will not be replanted after harvesting. Some areas have already been felled and replaced with oak and birch seedlings to encourage the spread of native trees.
Clear Out
Before we started work, you would not have been able to see much of the ground below the trees due to the spread of rhododendrons. Native plant life, including young trees were completely shaded out by the dense and leafy bushes. After a major clearing operation only scattered stumps remain, but these still require a regular and rigorous programme of cutting and spraying to prevent re-growth.
Paving the way
We hope you enjoy your walk. The paths were built as part of the project work to encourage access and raise awareness of the area's natural heritage. You can help our work to protect this woodland by keeping to the paths.
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Comer Estate Craigrostan Woods
LIFE PROJECT - Regeneration / Livestock Exclusion Areas
Welcome to one of a series of woodland schemes on the privately owned Comer Estate.
This wood is one of a number of internationally important Atlantic Oakwoods where habitat restoration is being carried out with financial assistance from the European Union LIFE Nature Programme.
Work to help improve the condition of the woodland and encourage the establishment of young seedlings has included:
Fencing to exclude sheep, deer and goats.
Bracken treatment and ground scarrification
Extensive rhododendron clearance and stump treatment
These operations, which have been carried out under the supervision of Scottish Woodlands Ltd on behalf of the owners, form part of a large initiative covering Atlantic Oakwoods in Scotland, England and Wales.
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Stopped for lunch at Inversnaid, bought a drink from the Inversnaid Hotel and sat overlooking the loch eating our rolls. On the opposite bank stands a hydroelectric station which pumps water up to a reservoir in the hills behind and releases it to generate power when a boost is required.
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Suddenly the sun disappeared; it would spend the most of the afternoon trying to breakout again.
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Inversnaid Nature Reserve
The reserve and its wildlife
Inversnaid nature reserve covers 923 acres (374 ha) of deciduous woodland and moorland on the steeply sloping eastern shore of Loch Lomond. The reserve lies within a National Scenic Area with the north-western part also being a Site of Special Scientific Interest.
In summer, buzzards nest on the crags and in the woods, white black grouse use the lower slopes. Common sandpipers, dipper and grey wagtail breed on the loch shore and along the mountain burns. In the woods migrants such as wood warbler, redstart, pied flycatcher and tree pipit join the resident birds. The loch itself is on a migration route especially for wildfowl and wading birds.
There is a good variety of woodland and moorland plants with exceptional communities of moss and lichens. A number of red deer and feral goats roam through the woodland together with a few roe deer, and there are several occupied badger sets on the reserve.
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Shortly after leaving Inversnaid we came upon a pair of feral goat grazing by the loch and became very excited trying to photograph them. By the end of the afternoon they had become a common sight.
A sign on a boathouse indicated that in 1990 the loch level was about 8ft above it's current level, whether this was a normal or abnormal level it didn't say.
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Feral Goat
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The RSPB has a short walk, only 400 steps, just beyond Inversnaid, which we took a diversion on to, but it was a bit of a disappointment as there were no information boards to tell us what was happening.
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Further along the map shows Rob Roy's Cave and a sign points in its general direction but we couldn't decide which of a number of contenders was the actual cave, a shelter formed by fallen rock slabs.
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The walk was accompanied by the lapping of waves on the shore which would have been most tranquil except for the noise of the speed boats and jet skis which were creating the waves as they raced up and down the loch and round the island of I Vow, former stronghold of the cattle-raiding MacFarlane's . The high powered motor cycles on the A82 on the opposite bank add to the disturbance.
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Stopped for a snack by the Doune Bothy as the sun at last fully returned with the wind now shifted to the south from yesterdayb
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Although not particularly difficult toadyb
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Drive back in time
"I drive the Kyloes (black cattle) from the Highlands down through here. It's a tough life. Each day I drive the cattle ten miles or so; if I went faster the beast would loose weight and therefore value at market. As a drover I am allowed to carry a pistol and dagger to protect the cattle from the likes of McGregor's men.
We drovers know the land like the back of our hands. I can tell you the easiest route through the hills and where the best grazing and overnight stances are. At the stances I sleep beneath the stars wrapped in my plaid."
The plaid is the traditional outer garment of the Highlander; made from a long length of woollen cloth. During the day it was worn wrapped around the waste with the end draped across the shoulder, whilst at night the drover would first undo it before wrapping himself up in it to sleep.
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For our evening meal the Staggers Inn was recommended but it was also suggested that we should look in at The Drovers. There was nothing that attracted us at the Staggers and so crossed the road to the Drovers. It was a step back in time. It hadn't been decorated since the days of the drovers, ancient paintings and animal heads hung on the blackened walls, a dog wandered around and a slow burning fire was giving a light smokey atmosphere but it was great and very popular so we the stayed for mince and tatties.
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Beinglas to Crianlarich - 6 miles
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During the night rain had fallen but it was dry as we set off at 9.30, though the forecast was for rain in the afternoon.
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Shortly past Beinglas Farm we came upon an information board about local forestry work
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Welcome to Beinglas Woods - Glenfalloch Estate
These woods form part of the largest and least disturbed remnant of the ancient semi-natural forest here at the head of Loch Lomond. They form one of the best examples of 'western acidic woodland' in Britain and are part of a European-wide network of high quality conservation sites called Natura 2000.
Glenfalloch Estate in conjunction with the Forestry Commission, other funding partners and the woodland managers RTS Ltd of Crieff, has now brought these wonderful old woods back into active management.
History
Once heavily used for timber and charcoal production, as well as a source of bark for the tanning industry, the woods used to be managed on a coppice rotation, whereby the trees would be cut every 24 years and the stumps allowed to re-grow, so providing a constant supply of bark for industry. The trees that remain today are a relic of this form of management, which was finally abandoned towards the end of the 19th century. Since then, the woods have been largely neglected and have served only in providing shelter for sheep, cattle and deer and this grazing by animals has prevented the regeneration of trees which will ensure the survival of the woodland.
Active Management
After a century of neglect, these fine old woods are now being brought back into active management. A total of 4 'enclosures' have been fenced off from stock and deer and this will allow the trees to regenerate. The dense covering of bracken has been treated in an effort to eradicate it from the woods, as it is a major impediment to successful germination and growth of young seedlings. Bracken is a non-native and highly invasive species and reducing its spread will also have important benefits for local wildlife.
These measurers will help ensure that the oak, birch, ash, alder and other seedlings grow onto maturity and thus replace the trees we see here today. The need for fencing is essential to preserve these valuable habitats but in the long term it is anticipated that this forest will once again co-exist with deer.
Management Plan
This project is the subject of a detailed Management Plan and all interested parties were consulted before the proposals were agreed. No deer have been culled as a result of the scheme and the impact on the wildlife generally is expected to be positive. There are no black grouse within the locality, which can sometimes be affected by this type of fencing and badgers have been afforded free access by means of custom-made gates.
Partnership
The work is part of a larger project covering Atlantic oakwoods in Scotland, England and Wales which is co-funded by the European Community LIFE-Nature Programme and co-ordinated by the Caledonian Partnership. This partnership includes the Forestry Commission, Scottish Natural Heritage, Highland Birchwoods, the Institute of Terrestrial Ecology, the Countryside Council for Wales, The National Trust, English Nature and many private land owners.
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Falls of Falloch
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The way followed the southern bank of the River Falloch upstream climbing high above it for a while on the down stream side of the Falls of Falloch with the river coming up to meet the path above the Falls.
For a while the river levelled out to a broad gentle flow with the path running close beside it, though a one place it had been so badly eroded that we could only pass by stepping on the remaining tree roots.
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In the distance we could see the path winding its way up before us. The weather that had been threatening all morning now became a heavy drizzle and reluctantly we put on our anoraks
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At Derrydaroch the path crossed to the north bank and then after a mile swung north away from the river passing under a very low and narrow "cattle creep" under the railway. We nearly had to get down on all fours in the mud to get through.
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Moving round the side of the hill we started to follow an old military road whose surface was at first fine, but soon it deteriorated and we were having to work around large rocks and stones, it would not have been possible to take a horse or cart along the track.
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Left the West Highland Way and made our way down a stony and muddy forest track to the village of Crianlarich, even without the miserable weather this section of the Way was the least interesting so far.
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A sign on the station told us a little about the place.
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Welcome to Crianlarich - Failte don Chrion Laraich
Crianlarich is a place of meeting - and parting. Strath Fillan (an t-strath - the plain by the river), Glen Dochart and Glen Falloch all come together here at A'Chrion Laraich, the withered site. To the east are the former clan lands of McNab and Campbells, to the south the lands of MacFarlane and MacGregor. The village is also where the rail journeys part - west to Oban and north to Fort William and Mallaig.
Many hundreds of years ago, these mountains watched over celtic monks. They built a priory at St Fillan who gave his name to the river. They also saw the MacNabs destroy the castle, on an island in Loch Dochart, which 'Black' Duncan Campbell of Glenorchy built at the turn of the 17th century.
This is a good place to start exploring. You can head north to Rannoch Moor and beyond, or south to Loch Lomond, on the West Highland Way. If you are properly equipped and experienced, you can climb Stob Binnein (1165m) and Ben More (1174m) to the east or Beinn Challum (1022m) to the north east.
The West Highland Way (153km/95miles)
This long distance walking route between the outskirts of Glasgow and Fort William runs close to the West Highland Line near here. You can join the Way a few hundred yards from the station. Make sure you're fit, well equipped and have good footwear. There is easily reached overnight accommodation at many places along the way. You'll find advice in The Official Guide Book and Route Map.
The West Highland Line
The route that makes todays West Highland Line were completed between 1880 and 1901 to serve what were then isolated communities. The route to Oban came west from Stirling and crossed under the Fort William route here.
A triumph of engineering created one of the world's great railway experiences. But the Line is not just one journey through some of Scotland's most inviting scenery, it's as many journeys as you want to make. Let the Iron Road to the Isles - Ratbad lanainn nan Eilean - make tracks for you to follow.
A triumph of engineering created one of the world's great railway experiences. But the Line is not just one journey through some of Scotland's most inviting scenery, it's as many journeys as you want to make. Let the Iron Road to the Isles - Ratbad lanainn nan Eilean - make tracks for you to follow.
So much to discover, so much to explore... by mountain, moor, loch and shore.
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With the rain falling harder we made our way to the Rod & Reel Pub to pass away the time to see what was happening with the weather before making any further plans. After a while with no signs of improvement we abandoned any idea of walking anywhere else and settled for a hot lunch in the pub and an early finish.
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The owner of the B&B that we are stopping at drove us the couple of miles to Benmore Farm for the start of the walk up Ben More. The forecast for the day was not promising but it was dry as we set off south at 9.25 along the track up Benmore Glen that would take us to the bottom of Ben More.
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The track came to an end at a dilapidated bridge that had been constructed from a flat bed trailer so we continued along the east bank of the burn following paths that were difficult to tell from sheep tracks.
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When we reached the second and last major eastern tributary we felt that we should head it to the saddle and so made our way up the north bank though the south would probably have done just as well. Occasional flashes of sun promised us more than it was able to deliver. Solitary stunted violets poked up their heads infrequently.
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At the saddle known as Bealach-eadar-dha Beinn (862m) we turned left to make our assault on the summit. Briefly the cloud cleared and we were able to see the top, or at least that part that was visible from where we were. Stob Binnein also became visible with large patches of snow on its northern flank.
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Continuing up we started to enter cloud. As we climbed rain started to fall but visibility remained reasonable at about 30m. As we neared the top the westerly wind picked up, making walking difficult. To reach the summit we had to make some simple scrambles but with a couple of heaves we were there.
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With the rain starting to fall harder we didn't stop, just walked from the trig point to the cairn and then made our return as quickly as possible to the shoulder on the way disturbing a female ptarmigan which was taking shelter.
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A warm bar seem to be more preferable to bagging Stob Binnein in the mist and rain. So we followed an alternative way down from the shoulder by crossing the face of the hill diagonally towards the bottom left hand corner of the forest opposite, until we reached the first major tributary and then followed the south bank of that into the valley.
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Retraced our steps from there to Benmore Farm we reached it at 1.40 having stopped for a quick sandwich behind a rock. The final 2 miles back to our accommodation at Crianlarich was a wet yomp along the side of the main road.
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